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My Control Arm is stuck to the strut housing.

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    #1

    My Control Arm is stuck to the strut housing.

    I've heard a few people say that disconnecting the control arm from the strut housing when doing suspension can be a bitch, but I'm having a really hard time. The tie rods are also proving difficult.

    So far I've tried hitting the crap out of the strut housing and the control arm with my rubber mallet. I tried using a universal puller, but that didn't work. I rented a tie rod puller from autozone, but I can't get that to fit on anything.

    Does anyone know a surefire way to get this done? I remember searching and seeing a thread where someone pointed out a puller that does fit for this job, but I have no idea how to get one. I want the next time I try to be the last time.

    Any help would be appreciated.
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    #2
    Pickel forks work good. Mine were a bitch too. Try not to hurt the boot of the ball joint unless you are replacing it.
    Originally posted by cabriodster87
    "Honey? What color is this wire? Is it the same as that one? Are you sure? I don't believe it. OK, it works. Thank you sweetie."
    Originally posted by Kershaw
    i've got a boner and a desire to speed.

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      #3
      get a jack and place it under the strut housing and lift it up this will make getting the tierod out easier....then get some pb blaster give it a couple sprays then put the nut back on top of the tierod and screw it down just a little bit, then go to turn whacking that..u don't want to hit the top of the tierod itself b/c u may flatten it to where it won't come out of the housing and then you're really fucked....i replaced my control arms over the summer and it was kind of a bitch getting them out...have u loosened the inner ball joints? those are a major pain in the ass, esp the passenger side

      Comment

        #4
        don't use a rubber mallet, you want a slegehammer of some sort. you really need to knock it loose. and yes, you'll probably want to get some spare nuts that you can screw a few threads down and then beat on from the top.
        Originally posted by Gruelius
        and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by SpunkyE30nOk View Post
          get a jack and place it under the strut housing and lift it up this will make getting the tierod out easier....then get some pb blaster give it a couple sprays then put the nut back on top of the tierod and screw it down just a little bit, then go to turn whacking that..u don't want to hit the top of the tierod itself b/c u may flatten it to where it won't come out of the housing and then you're really fucked....i replaced my control arms over the summer and it was kind of a bitch getting them out...have u loosened the inner ball joints? those are a major pain in the ass, esp the passenger side
          I did not know you would want to loosen the inner ball joint. How would you do that?

          Does anyone know what the thread size on those bolts too? Or even the thread sizes on the tie rods?
          Last edited by WlknGenius; 10-11-2006, 02:00 PM.

          Comment

            #6
            OTC low profile ball joint press!
            Originally posted by Fusion
            If a car is the epitome of freedom, than an electric car is house arrest with your wife titty fucking your next door neighbor.
            The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money. -Alexis de Tocqueville


            The Desire to Save Humanity is Always a False Front for the Urge to Rule it- H. L. Mencken

            Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants.
            William Pitt-

            Comment

              #7
              Hit the control arm on the side, where the ball joint spindle passes through the control arm. Use a small sledge, about 6 to 8 pounds. Smack it with some decent force, but with a "snap" to the swing, like you are trying to make the hammer "pop".

              Use a crowbar to apply upwards pressure if necessary, while whacking.

              Generally, it takes me about 4 to 6 whacks...

              Luke

              Closing SOON!
              "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

              Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

              Thanks for 10 years of fun!

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
                Hit the control arm on the side, where the ball joint spindle passes through the control arm. Use a small sledge, about 6 to 8 pounds. Smack it with some decent force, but with a "snap" to the swing, like you are trying to make the hammer "pop".

                Use a crowbar to apply upwards pressure if necessary, while whacking.

                Generally, it takes me about 4 to 6 whacks...

                Luke
                I had the suspension from hell... Nick helped me out. 4 whacks at the side of the joint itself, then one-two good soft strikes from the nut, and they both fell within one minute. Controls arms are very strong, keep that in mind

                Comment

                  #9
                  The best way I've found is to use a small 12oz hammer, place it where you want all the impact to go (the strut where the ball joint fits through), and proceed to give a half dozen good whacks. Then tap a nut that is threaded on top of the ball joint with the 12oz. Repeat until it comes out. I love my air hammer the most, point, zap, *pop*, done.


                  Keep it slideways!!

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
                    Use a small sledge, about 6 to 8 pounds.
                    that one bigass "small" sledge. my 2 and 3 pounders are about all I want to wield one handed. I'm a wimp though.


                    pickle fork on impact hammer is great, *expect* to rip the boot. you might as well replace your tie rods when you're replacing the control arms.
                    Last edited by browntown; 10-12-2006, 06:58 AM.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by WlknGenius View Post
                      I did not know you would want to loosen the inner ball joint. How would you do that?

                      Does anyone know what the thread size on those bolts too? Or even the thread sizes on the tie rods?
                      the nut for the CA is either a 15 or 17mm...if u loosen the inner Ball joint and give that a few whacks, then lift up on the strut housing it'll make it easier to come out...the control arm is only held by ball joints, the C.A.B is mounts to the body and the C.A slips through that...the inner b.js *hehe I said bjs :p * go through the subframe, be warned the passenger side is a bitch to do b/c the exhaust manifolds get in the way

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Get an impact chisel with the pointy tip.. it'll come out in 5 seconds.

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