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    2 problems

    i have a problem regarding my heating system and something to with either suspension or brakes.

    first my heat: it only turns on when it wants to, not specifically heat rather the blower motor. if i put it on sometimes it goes on sometimes not, so i leave at setting 4 and if i hit a bump it might go on, or it will just randomly while cruising...what causes this is there an intermittent connection somewhere?

    and the driving issue, when i step on the brakes going to a stop at a red light or any braking for that matter the car shakes, it can be felt really strongly in the steering wheel, i thought it might be a rotor but the car also seems to sway a bit more on the highway at 60+ mph so i dunno if its a tie rod control arm what not. thanks
    1991 318is --- currently not road worthy
    1991 318i ---- 308K - retired

    Originally posted by RickSloan
    so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?

    #2
    The heater could be a loos connection at the blower motor of it could be the resistor pack at the blower motor. Could also be a bad switch.

    The brakeing thing could be a frozen caliper, because you say it sways on the highway. It could also be the control arm bushings and or the ball joints.
    Originally posted by cabriodster87
    "Honey? What color is this wire? Is it the same as that one? Are you sure? I don't believe it. OK, it works. Thank you sweetie."
    Originally posted by Kershaw
    i've got a boner and a desire to speed.

    Comment


      #3
      My car has had those exact same issues.

      1. Heater blower resistor pack. Easy removal, easy clean. Buy a can of CRC Elelctronic contact cleaner on your way home today. You should have some anyway.

      2. Your CABs are shot. My car shuddered like a dog shitting a peach pit...my rotors are NASTY grooved flea-bay junk. Moderate braking just about made the wheel jump out ofd my hands! I changed to AKG Motorsport zero offset Urethane CABs...no other changes....now braking is smooth and progressive. I will warn you that all upgraded CABs are rougher on the control arm ball joints, so be prepared to change them too.

      GL!
      Luke

      Closing SOON!
      "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

      Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

      Thanks for 10 years of fun!

      Comment


        #4
        what are the best/cheapest CAB to get then? how can i make sure this is the problem is there a way to check them, i know how to check tie rods and frozen calipers im sure would be easy as well
        1991 318is --- currently not road worthy
        1991 318i ---- 308K - retired

        Originally posted by RickSloan
        so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?

        Comment


          #5
          Just look at the CAB while lying on the ground. See if you see any tears in the rubber. Another way to tell if it is not ovious from just looking is to jack a front wheel up and tug and push on a front wheel from the front. You will feel the wheel come and go from you. That is a bad CAB. You can get CAB from pretty much anywhere and the stock ones will be about $50 shipped. I would upgrade to some more solid ones for a better handeling ride as well as for their durability.
          Originally posted by cabriodster87
          "Honey? What color is this wire? Is it the same as that one? Are you sure? I don't believe it. OK, it works. Thank you sweetie."
          Originally posted by Kershaw
          i've got a boner and a desire to speed.

          Comment


            #6
            so u recomend urethane? thanks
            1991 318is --- currently not road worthy
            1991 318i ---- 308K - retired

            Originally posted by RickSloan
            so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?

            Comment


              #7
              I heartily recommend the urethane from AKG. they were $60 shipped.

              Luke

              Closing SOON!
              "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

              Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

              Thanks for 10 years of fun!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
                I heartily recommend the urethane from AKG. they were $60 shipped.

                Luke

                where do they sell these for 60 bux shipped, also whats the difference between offset bushings, are they better or?
                1991 318is --- currently not road worthy
                1991 318i ---- 308K - retired

                Originally posted by RickSloan
                so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by jrobie79 View Post
                  where do they sell these for 60 bux shipped, also whats the difference between offset bushings, are they better or?
                  offset bushings have a couple benefits such as more caster, better stability at higher speeds, and iirc more clearance between the strut body and the inside of the rim/wheel since the control arm is shifted since it's rear mounting point is not in the same spot. None of this would matter if it's just a cheap daily/beater though imho.
                  Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                  OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                  Comment

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