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Rear subframe bushings - need replacement

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    Rear subframe bushings - need replacement

    I've given up searching for this topic covered before......

    Got tech inspected, need new rear subframe bushings. Just FYI shop charges $600 :shock:

    I guess DYI it is hopefully. I remember Ryan Stewart used a flame torch instead of a puller. Anyone rented a puller before? How much and how difficult?

    Bimmerworld sells them for $100, Powerflex or whatever. I'm probably going for Poly urethane right? Any better deals. BMworld also in their description says install is easy.....we'll see.

    Oh yeah, I have two weeks to get this done. :shock: Hopefully I can do it this weekend. So your advice is appreciated.

    #2
    Won't swap springs but want to do rear subframe bushings? Ha.

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      #3
      Originally posted by Bill 84 318i
      Won't swap springs but want to do rear subframe bushings? Ha.
      I knew it was coming. I asked my buddy if he could do it, and he was iffy on it, so I assumed I should leave it to the pros. :oops: Oh well. Live and learn.....

      I determined that fooling around with it was difficult.....since the e-brake was on. I was running around and wanted to, but didn't ask on R3V before paying to have it done.

      Whatever. :roll: I know you kid, but I got to have this planned and ready this weekend! :shock:

      The good part is that the susp guy did check out the suspension and everything was good and the camber was -3.25 before the taller springs, and -2 after. I can live with that!

      - - - -

      Back on topic: rear subframe

      Any veterans? I'm looking to probably get off work 3 o'clock Sat as usual and then start.....hopefully finishing before sundown....can it be done, or will I run over to Sunday?

      And I can call Advanced Auto Parts and they might have what I need, but I dunno.

      HELP!

      Comment


        #4
        I bought my Powerflex ones from BMP about a month ago, they had them on sale for $90. Check with them.
        -Brandon
        '86 325es S50
        '12 VW GTI Autobahn DSG
        '03 540i M-Sport (sold)
        '08 Jeep SRT-8 (sold)

        For sale:
        S50 TMS chip for Schricks

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          #5
          Oh Snap. I had thought of your one thread while at the Tech Inspection, but never found it when I got home. http://www.r3vlimited.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5226 (more for my reference than anything, so I don't lose the link)

          How do you like them?

          Brandon, thanks a ton.

          Comment


            #6
            Doing the rear subframe bushings is one of the bigger jobs on an e30.

            Now for my hearsay.

            I've talked to one person that said you can basically unbolt one side of the subframe, let it drop enough to get the puller on, and just use that to swap bushings. Then bolt up that side and do the other. However, this assumes that your subframe is not rusted/corroded to your car (which is very common). If it is rusted/corroded, have fun pulling the bitch down.

            If you don't do this, you basically have to pull everything out. Diff, trailing arms, subframe, then get the fuckers out, new ones in, and reinstall. Which IMO is a good time to do the trailing arm bushings (seriously, if you're gonna be in there, do the extra effort and replace everything. Peace of mind owns). Also do the diff bushing (replace with M coupe one).

            I'm kinda torn between urethane and rubber Gruppe N. The Gruppe N ones are expensive, but I'm just not a huge fan of urethane.

            Comment


              #7
              Damn.

              Not only if I wanted to, or think I could. I might simply not have the time for this shit. Literally.
              But I don't exactly have the $$$ to not try DYI either......

              The only saving grace could be is if this labor is directly overlapping to installing adjustable camber/toe IE parts.....then maybe it could be justifyable, if still not fincincially good for me.

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