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    Transmission / clutch job question

    When you pull the tranny to replace/install a new clutch kit what other items you might need to replace at the same time ? IS there a seal that goes between the block and the tranny ?

    I just want to make sure I have all the parts for the job when I bring the car in.
    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

    #2
    The seal on the back of the block is the rear main seal. It would be a good idea to replace that. I would also replace the pilot bearing, flex disc, and every wear item in the shift linkage. It also couldn't hurt to replace your reverse light switch. They're only $5 or so and it's much easier to replace while the tranny is out.

    Comment


      #3
      Thats exactly the info I was looking for. I bought a sachs clutch kit, it came with the pilot bearing I am pretty sure and I do have a flex disc and ie mounts.

      So i need to pickup a "rear main seal" , gotta find a part number so I know what I am looking for. Makes sense about the shift linkage bushings too, are there common ones that usually need to be replaced due to age ? My shifter has about 1/2- 3/4" of side to side play.
      Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



      OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

      Comment


        #4
        (I've edited this posting to clarify that this is for the m20 engine, not his m10, and to correct the dimensions of the 30mm socket based on new measurements.)

        If you have a m20 engine you have the opportunity to replace the rear crank seal. That's most easily done by removing the seal carrier, giving you an opportunity to replace another gasket.
        11-14-1-706-785 Rear crank seal $6.92
        11-14-1-265-028 Rear crank seal gasket $0.55

        You'll need to repace the pressure plate bolts and the flywheel bolts
        07-11-9-919-939 M8x16 pressure plate screw, 6@ $0.35/$0.30
        11-22-1-717-840 M12X1.5X28 Flywheel bolt, 8@ $1.75/$1.49

        You should replace the plastic pivot point for the clutch fork. When I swapped transmissions one was completely mashed down. Luckily the other transmission had one in good shape, but I wished I purchased a new replacement.

        You should definitely re-seal the transmission. I failed to get the output shaft nut off, so only two of the three seal are new on mine. These are for the Getrag 260. I think the Getrag 240 parts are the same except for the input shaft seal, which is smaller.

        23-12-1-282-394 Shift shaft oil seal, 15x21x5, $8.60, $2.35
        23-12-1-205-340 Transmission output shaft seal, 40x55x8, $12.40 , $2.95
        23-12-1-220-619 Transmission Input Shaft Oil Seal; 35x52x7mm $7.17
        23-21-1-490-120 Safety plate/Lock plate, driveshaft output flange, $0.85/$1.33
        Socket needed 30mm (1-3/16" = 30.16) deep thin-walled socket
        Maximum socket diameter 40mm OD, although 40.1mm may work
        Interal relief: minimum diameter of 14mm to 45mm deep to clear projecting 14.0mm centering pin
        ST Tools BMW3025 socket is 39.04mm OD, 16mm deep flats, 66mm deep

        If you have updated to the aluminum shifter support, you definitely want to replace the most difficult to reach shifter bushing
        25-11-1-220-832, Shift arm to transmission bearing sleeve 26mm, 8.00/6.80
        Superceded by 25-11-7-519-669

        Most of the slop is from this part:
        25-11-7-501-309 Gear Sel Rod Joint (-9/89), 36.56/31.08 MTC-$20.99
        Wider joint matches old shift rod
        25-11-7-503-525 Gear Sel Rod Joint (+9/89) , 36.56/31.08 MTC-$12.21
        (was 25-11-1-220-198)
        Joint matches width of shift lever, shift rod is symmetrical
        New style shift rod, with small transmission-end arm:
        Forward connection: 10mm diameter, joint 20.6mm long, pin 23mm to groove.

        25-11-1-434-194 Felt/foam "washer" (oil pad) for shift linkage $0.43

        Replacing the shift rod usually isn't needed, and that part is about $40. If you do replace it, get the 89+ version and matching joint.

        25-11-1-220-439, Yellow washers 16x10x0.9mm, 4@ 0.51
        25-11-1-220-379, Spring clip for shift linkage pins, 2@ 0.70
        You shouldn't need these parts, but just in case
        25-11-1-221-849 Guide pin (bitch clip) $5.03
        25-11-2-226-585 M3 "shim", denser than standard e30 rubber buffer $1.60/1.36
        Last edited by DJB; 03-17-2007, 08:28 AM.

        Comment


          #5
          resurface your flywheel and make sure its balanced right
          Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

          Originally posted by TimKninja
          Im more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.

          Comment


            #6
            Make sure you have the alignment tool for the clutch. Otherwise... good luck getting the trans in all the way.

            Will
            RIP e30 (brilliantrot '91 325i) 11/17/06 Byebye: 8/21/07
            Welcome e30 (brilliantrot '90 325is) 12/23/06
            DaveCN = Old Man
            My signature picture was taken by ME! Not by anyone else!



            Originally posted by george graves
            If people keep quoting me in their sig, I'm going to burn this motherfucker down.

            Comment


              #7
              I am not doing this myself, I just wanted to know what other parts other than the sachs clutch kit I would need, shop is going to do the labor.
              Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



              OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

              Comment


                #8
                OK I( have been thinking of doing a clutch in mine too, and was wondering if after 200K on a flywheel it is a good idea to just replace it instead of resurfacing?
                Like I have said I am so used to Porsche's, and with many of them I just threw down for a new FW.

                Comment


                  #9
                  DJB with the most detailed response award. wow.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by SandyEggoE30Girl View Post
                    OK I( have been thinking of doing a clutch in mine too, and was wondering if after 200K on a flywheel it is a good idea to just replace it instead of resurfacing?
                    Like I have said I am so used to Porsche's, and with many of them I just threw down for a new FW.
                    There's no need to buy a new flywheel, unless you are dying to buy an alluminum one. Just have your stock flywheel resurfaced and possibly shaved down/lightened. Make sure it gets balanced afterward.

                    -Erik

                    Comment


                      #11
                      DJB thank you for the detailed reply! My car has an older style (sheet metal) console and shifter does have a lot of play. What bushings do I need to order to fix this ?
                      Thanks again!
                      Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                      OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Well, called up BMA and got a bunch of little parts

                        Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                        OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by SandyEggoE30Girl View Post
                          OK I( have been thinking of doing a clutch in mine too, and was wondering if after 200K on a flywheel it is a good idea to just replace it instead of resurfacing?
                          Like I have said I am so used to Porsche's, and with many of them I just threw down for a new FW.
                          YES throw it away and buy a new one... I'll buy your old one for $5 + shipping....

                          It's important to make sure the surface isn't scored as well as the step is maintained. If the step is too low the PP can't clamp the clutch as well, if it's too high you'll get extra clamping force and possibly it may not allow your clutch to disengage. Some guys bump up the step a couple of thou just to cheat a little extra clamping force.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            My car is at a shop and needs a flywheel :( I can't believe how expensive it is from a dealer.... $450 something , damn used m10 tranny is worth what $100 ? lol.

                            Ordered one from a recycler and have my fingers crossed that it will be in good enough condition...
                            Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                            OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                            Comment

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