How much easier is it to install an SSK with the exhaust and driveline dropped?

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  • dinanm3atl
    replied
    take it all down so you can change the knuckle too :)

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by DanielHStout
    WTF is "wold" Luke? Those are pretty cheap parts, I wold do them all at the same time.:p
    Hey ucker...add an "F"!

    Good to see you back on the forum.



    Originally posted by 2002maniac
    bend over and I'll show ya
    If you can get a hard on looking at my fat old hairy ass, go ahead and try!

    ya sick fucker!

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  • 2002maniac
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
    WTF is "hole linkage"?
    bend over and I'll show ya

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  • DanielHStout
    replied
    WTF is "wold" Luke? Those are pretty cheap parts, I wold do them all at the same time.:p

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  • AlarmedBread
    replied
    I took out the trans mounts, then raised the front of the engine up and let the tranny rest on the cross member. Some what safe and easy way to get to everything easily.

    I replaced those rubber bushings with bronze ones that I got at the hardware store for $2 use 1/2" x 3/8" and drill them out.

    Do those first, then do a shorter shift lever if you want to. They are MUCH easier to do when nothing is in the way.

    The only part thats really hard to do with everything installed is the carrier, the rest is pretty easy.

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by blueapplesoda
    besides that you need to replace the shift linkage and the selector rod link. for everyones information Those are the two parts that go from the shifter to the "T" sticking out of the tranny, and the "T" itself.

    :D
    But that wold not affect the carrier itself, right? I wanna tighten up the carrier first, then if necessary I will replace that shift rod and the link.

    Thanks for the input!
    Luke

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  • blueapplesoda
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
    Delrin carrier bushings because the carrier STILL flops about 1" either way
    besides that you need to replace the shift linkage and the selector rod link. for everyones information Those are the two parts that go from the shifter to the "T" sticking out of the tranny, and the "T" itself.

    :D

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by backtrail69
    I THINK he means WHOLE linkage...
    oh yeah...the whole "hole" thing.

    I was just giving him shit.

    Luke

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  • backtrail69
    replied
    I THINK he means WHOLE linkage...

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    WTF is "hole linkage"?

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  • Mastrcruse
    replied
    I don't know but I thought it was worth it to pay my mechanic $40 for him to put it in and rebuild the hole linkage

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  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by ldsbeaker
    then, after it breaks, you need a set of needle nose pliers to pry it off.
    Not fun.
    only on your east coast boy's rust buckets :p

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  • ldsbeaker
    replied
    then, after it breaks, you need a set of needle nose pliers to pry it off.
    Not fun.

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  • nando
    replied
    the bitch clip isn't that big of a deal.. an extra long flathead makes quick work of it.

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by Joey Link
    How feasible is it to drop the rear of the tranny a bit to gain better access to the linkage?
    That is exactly what I would suggest.

    IMO, the dreaded "bitch clip" is the issue. The little bastard lives about 1/2" from the tranny tunnel, directly above the driveline.

    The rest of the SSK would take about 10 minutes to swap.

    If cash is tight (Joey, did you lose the keys to your vault?) do the shifter carrier bushings, both front and rear...screw the SSK altogether.

    I did my Z3 SSK last week. I am now going to find smoked turns for the front bumper, because they make your car faster, and Delrin carrier bushings because the carrier STILL flops about 1" either way!

    Luke

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