weard brake leak can anyone help?

[crazynoll]

i just put some money in changing my brake pressure regulator and the leak is still there. i thought it was the brake pressure regulator becasue when i had a freind pump the brakes it would leak right under it . could it be the brake line has anyone experinced this before?

[mrsleeve]

never had a leak there but it is a posibility that the line has rusted out an has a pin hole in it.

[Mike325]

How did the line look when you replaced the pressure regulator? I bet the line has a hole like stated above. You should replace if it is. You can get the line from the dealer. They come with the ends flaired and the screw cap ends on. All you have to do is bend it in to fit. I did mine. Actually not that bad, but I did have no gas tank or rear subframe in at the time. Good luck!

[crazynoll]

yah i didnt get to see the line cause since the regulator was in such a tight spot i had my mechanic do it since he was also changing out my rack and pinion, but he should have noticed if there was a hole. how much are the lines cause have any idea?

[mrsleeve]

Well if you spend about 40 bucks you can buy all the tools to make your own lines. If you are gonna drive a 20 year old car its gonna have some rusty brake lines an fixing them your self with line from the local autozone is way cheaper than the dealer I would guess. All you need is a decent ISO (AKA bubble flare) flaring tool not a double 45 an ATD brand will do about $24 bucks . An a good 1/4inch 180 degree tubing bender (not 1 from autozone) get the OTC or Snap on, or other reputable brand $20-$95 an a cheapy tubing cutter .99 cents. Have fun with it.

[crazynoll]

yah that is a good idea. its funny u mention autozone cause i work there. but u say a brake line autozone carries should work do u know how long it should be?
and thanks for ur help.

[mrsleeve]

depends on how long the chunk you are replacing is. Pull it off an take a piece of string an trace the bends then pull it stright an mesure how long the string is an add a inch for the flares. I always add a bit in case I fuck up the flare. If you are cutting out a piece of a long run just find a stright section and cut it out an flare the end a get a coupler form auto zone. You will prolly have to buy a piece that is a bit long an cut it to length an reflare the end no big deal.

[bddog]

I had a bad flare on my first car, aTriumph TR10. The metal cracks from being worked. I cut the end off with a pipe cutter and reflared it.
These fittings are fine threaded and very easy to cross thread.
Look for the highest wet spot. Fluid can travel down the line. Clean the area well and see if you can locate which fitting/line is bad.
If it is cross threaded , you can cut the end off, slip on a new fitting, then reflare it.
You can purchase a flaring tool cheap, if you don't plan on using it much.
If there is a hole/crack in the line, an easy fix is to buy two compression fittings and a short piece of line. Works great, holds forever.
You can also buy a short line already flared, cut the lines to fit and connect them with a compression fitting( the easy way) They make a small pipe cutter (approx. 2") for tight spaces.-Steve

[Mike325]

All good tips. The line from the dealer is under $10.

[crazynoll]

sweet thanks again i think i can figure it out now.

[crazynoll]

its not the brake lines its the power booster.