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Need GOOD experienced help MAF & Idle

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    #1

    Need GOOD experienced help MAF & Idle

    Car has a mustang heated wire MAF. I took a trip up to BavAuto yesterday & bought a new cap, rotor, plugs, all vacuum & intake hoses, eccentrics for valves & a few other little odds & ends. I used a MAF cleaner SPECIFIC MAF CLEANER by CRC or CMC???

    So I took the intake apart, replaced the cap & rotor, adjusted the valves properly (COLD 11mm), cleaned out the heated wire MAF & did a tune up. I pulled out the plugs but they looked good so I didn't change those.

    OK problem is car runs great but every once in a while (more when motor is cold or under temp) the check engine light comes on and the motor cuts out. It feels like ICV or MAF but I'm not sure. The MAF is good, working, fine, etc. and the ICV is OK.. Working. The only thing I haven't checked yet is taken the volt meter to the three wire ICV and checked that the numbers are correct. Other than that Idle is right up where it should be (~750), car pulls strong, power is good, fuel consumption is down, etc.

    What could cause the car to just intermittantly cut out like that?
    Tags: None
    #2
    you said you took the intake off did you use new gaskets?
    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

    Originally posted by TimKninja
    Im more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.

    Comment

      #3
      What about an intake leak at the rubber boot doing from the MAF to the throttle body? A small tear might seal sometimes, but open up under certain conditions.

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View Post
        What about an intake leak at the rubber boot doing from the MAF to the throttle body? A small tear might seal sometimes, but open up under certain conditions.
        I agree.

        Are you the guy with the red e30 and 15" kosei k1's? Automatic.
        Originally posted by cabriodster87
        "Honey? What color is this wire? Is it the same as that one? Are you sure? I don't believe it. OK, it works. Thank you sweetie."
        Originally posted by Kershaw
        i've got a boner and a desire to speed.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by Mike325 View Post
          I agree.

          Are you the guy with the red e30 and 15" kosei k1's? Automatic.
          Nope... Bronzit 89 IS faker... 14" basketweaves, stock looking car...

          I took the boot off and cleaned it up as well as checked all the bends for cracks & tears. I bought a new one to replace it with but did not replace because it seemed fine. The fitting between the intake boot and the ICV was a little loose but I used a dab of silicone & a zip tie and it seems fine. All new gaskets were used with a dab of silicone. The surfaces were all scraped properly and polished so there were no scrapes, gouges, etc.

          The only two variables left are the MAF itself (Ford heated wire I think from a Mustang) and the ICV. I'm going to put the voltmeter on the three prong ICV tonight to make sure everything is OK there....

          Also when I changed the cap & rotor the rotor was tracking pretty badly and one of the cap/wire connectors was really shot. I pulled ALL the plugs and inspected so I'll take another look at the plugs with new cap & rotor to make sure they look the same.

          Any thoughts? Even any thoughts as to where I can get a new ICV cheap (that works) or a new heated wire MAF pretty cheap? Can they be had at the ford dealer?

          Thanks for the replies. This is the only thing left to supurb drivability. Right now top end is great but cold or under temp low end drivability is really suffering.

          Comment

            #6
            On my M20, the fuel injector harness connection that's hidden below the intake manifold (C190? can't recall the exact connector number) had some corrosion, and would flake out. As I was diagnosing the problem by wiggling various connectors around, one of the corroded wires actually snapped off, thus informing me of where the problem was.

            Might want to check that out, it is a common problem on these engines. Pull back the rubber boots on both sides of that connector and look to see that the wires are corrosion free and intact.

            Comment

              #7
              Tested the ICV.... Now's when I need someone chime in...

              OK:
              three prong ICV (no idle adjustment)
              48.6 ohms on outside two prongs
              25.6 and 25.4 ohms for middle to upper & middle to lower prong on ICV
              ~12+ (same as found on alternator output) found on middle pin of ICV harness plug

              Unplug the ICV and NOTHING happens. Plug it in and it humms A LOT, idle stays the same but jumps up and down a little and runs rough/stumbles around 500.

              Question is the ohms check out OK per the book (book says ABOUT 40 & 20 ohms) but when you unplug the ICV nothing happens.... Anyone have any thoughts??

              Books says if you unplug and idle does not jump up to ~2,000 replace...

              Comment

                #8
                If I unplug my ICV my rpm speed jumps.
                Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                Comment

                  #9
                  should I replace my ICV then? seems like its not broken but maybe not working???

                  Comment

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