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    Clutch issues

    I replaced my clutch a month ago w/ the Sachs replacement (clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing). Now Im concerned that something doesnt feel right. To drive the car smoothly out of first gear I have to hold the clutch in for much longer than I should (or have previously). The friction point seems to be about midway, but I still have to keep the clutch engaged for seconds afterwards.

    If I dont keep it smooth by keeping the clutch pedal engaged, the car kind of shutters but doesnt necesarily stall. At a stand still, I can depress the clutch (obviously slowly) without accelerating and the car takes off fine.

    Any ideas of what could be wrong?? The TOB was a pretty straight fwd install, and as long as the clutch was aligned and bolted up it should of been fine. right?? By the way its a 318is w/ the stock dual mass flywheel.

    #2
    Not sure about what you mean about you keep the clutch engaged for seconds afterwards.
    Originally posted by cabriodster87
    "Honey? What color is this wire? Is it the same as that one? Are you sure? I don't believe it. OK, it works. Thank you sweetie."
    Originally posted by Kershaw
    i've got a boner and a desire to speed.

    Comment


      #3
      hmm ill try to clarify...

      After finding the friction point I have to keep the clutch pedal pressed (engaged) for 2 seconds or so while giving it gas in order to go smoothly. Im trying to emphasize this 2 second period, with my old clutch and other e30's Ive driven in the past week its much less time with the clutch pedal pressed in.

      Its like i have to ride the clutch just to make a take off smooth. If I dont give it enough gas with the clutch still engaged the car shutters or chugs.. its a different vibration then the simple lull and stall that im trying to point out.

      damn, i know this sounds really vague and it probally sounds like this is the first time ive driven a 5 speed (which is not the case!). When installing the clutch I realized the guibo is shot, but havent got to replacing it yet. What are performance signs that the guibo is toast?? Is this an issue with clutch feel or possibly the shuttering Im talking about?

      Comment


        #4
        Wow, I have the same exact issue with mine. I don't know the clutch history or when it was last replaced, but I bought my car with 163k on the clock. So maybe it was a new clutch too and that is why I experience the same thing?
        Claus Luthe is my hero.

        Comment


          #5
          How long has the new clutch been it? Could it be possible that the rear main seal is leaking and putting oil on the disk?
          Originally posted by cabriodster87
          "Honey? What color is this wire? Is it the same as that one? Are you sure? I don't believe it. OK, it works. Thank you sweetie."
          Originally posted by Kershaw
          i've got a boner and a desire to speed.

          Comment


            #6
            stupid question, but is your parking brake on, or, perhaps, sticking? clutch shudder is usually a sign of overheating; the clutch friction surfaces may become glazed; friction material transfers from the clutch ferodo onto the steel surfaces of the pressure plate and flywheel and gets baked in (sortof).. did you have the flywheel turned before you put all back together?

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks guys. Rear main seal is a possibility... But wouldnt that cause the clutch to slip? Mine is definately grabbing well at the friction point, but then Im having to keep it in to prevent the shudder problem.

              The parking break is not set when this occurs. I didnt have the flywheel turned before reassembling. But Im not really sure what u mean by turned... Same as machined?? I didnt have it machined either b/c its dual mass.

              Can anyone chime in on how their clutch felt after they replaced it?? By the way Ive driven 3k with the new clutch. Its obviously a manageable car to drive, but diffucult to some (like one of my roomates who stalls it every time he needs to back it out of the driveway, and says "dude whats wrong with your clutch, it used to be fine".. needless to say, he doesnt drive the car anymore)

              Comment


                #8
                Yes, he does mean machined. Did you clean it at all before the reassembly? The flywheel that is. How bad was your old clutch? Was it worn out badly? I have a feeling that maybe your flywheel should have been machined. Even if it is a dual mass, they can still be machined.

                The fact that you have to ride the clutch in first gear is not a good thing. You are eventually going to heat up the cluch disk/flywheel and this only makes your shuddering problems worse. What you can do in the mean time is try and bleed your slave. Could help the situation.
                Originally posted by cabriodster87
                "Honey? What color is this wire? Is it the same as that one? Are you sure? I don't believe it. OK, it works. Thank you sweetie."
                Originally posted by Kershaw
                i've got a boner and a desire to speed.

                Comment


                  #9
                  You really should have gotten your flywheel resurfaced, or replaced it if you couldn't. It sounds like the surface is messed up/contaminated.
                  :: PNW Crew ::
                  '87 325 4dr, '74 2002

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Based on my experience with muscle cars, this vibration is because:

                    A) Your flywheel is misaligned with the pressure plate.
                    B) Your Clutch disc is bent.
                    C) Your pressure plate is uneven or misaligned with the case.
                    D) The flyeheel or pressure plate surfaces are not good enough.
                    E) Part of your disk got some oil on it and got glazed.

                    All these require dissasembly, re inspection, resurfacing and/or replacement of parts.

                    Sorry.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      well shit.

                      thanks for the input fellas, well see what happens next.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        also sometimes there can be a breakin peroid on new clutches. Perhaps it will get better after a little driving. Usually it specifies a certain number of shifts before you can really wail on it. It needs time to heat up fully and mate well with the surface of the PP and flywheel.

                        Do you still have the old clutch? can you post up some pics of it? How about the flywheel surface? Was it bad? Glazed?

                        Something you can try is put the car in 3rd and wail on the parking brake... Ride the clutch a little bit. Similar to when you seat new brake pads. the goal is to heat up the clutch plate AND wear in the surfaces between the PP and the flywheel.

                        The only reason why I'd think you would need to keep the clutch in longer is if you put the wrong clutch on or possibly if the step is too tall/clutch is too thick and it's engaging so quickly that the syncros aren't able to keep the gear speeds up and it's grinding. If it's just a jerking/shuddering don't worry about tearing it all back apart... just ride the sh*t out of it and seat it/break it in well and know that your clutch life will be cut a little short AND that you'll need to resurface the flywheel in a few years when your current clutch is smoked...

                        I've reused clutches and used flywheels/PP's that are in totally unknown condition in my M10's... all non-matching, all used, all non prepped... just bolt them in and let it rip... (changing a clutch on a 2002 is like a 3 hour job BTW..)

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