Which shift linkage parts *have* to be relaced to reduce slop?

[Joey Link]

I'm gathering the parts for my big drivetrain/tranny 325iC project and I'm low on funds. I've seen the thread where all the shift linkage parts are listed and such, but Mr. Copperwheat said I don't need to replace *all* of them, just a handfull which should be less than $20. Which are the most important ones?

I can't seem to find a thread that lists these, even after extensive searching.

[KenC]

It's like the 4th thread down in the FAQ section, you d-bag ;)

4x . . . 25 11 1 220 439 - Spacer Rings (two extra)
1x . . . 25 11 1 220 832 - Rubber Bearing sleeve (could be replaced with UUC Delrin Bushings)
2x . . . 25 11 1 220 379 - Circlips $0.50 (one extra)
1x . . . 25 11 1 220 600 - Nylon Shift Bushing - $4.00

[NC325iC]

dont forget the rear mount deal, dont know the pn or the real name for it, but that reduced ALOT of the slop in my car

[DJB]

Having looked at many boneyard car, I think I have a pretty good perspective on this.

The metal joint that connect the shift rod to the transmission is the biggest source of rotational slop, which shows up as side-to-side movement in the car. There are two sizes, so be certain to check which your car has.
25-11-7-501-309 Gear Sel Rod Joint (-9/89), 36.56/31.08 MTC-$20.99
Wider joint matches old shift rod
25-11-7-503-525 Gear Sel Rod Joint (+9/89) , 36.56/31.08 MTC-$12.21
(was 25-11-1-220-198)
Joint matches width of shift lever, shift rod is symmetrical
New style shift rod, with small transmission-end arm:
Forward connection: 10mm diameter, joint 20.6mm long, pin 23mm to groove.

You must replace the foam/felt grease pad and might as well replace the yellow plastic side washers and clips since they are inexpensive, but they won't fix anything on their own.
25-11-1-220-439, Yellow washers 16x10x0.9mm, 0.51
25-11-1-220-379, Spring clip for shift linkage pins, 0.70
25-11-1-434-194 Felt/foam "washer" (oil pad) for shift linkage $0.43

Cars 1986 and later use an aluminum brace to hold the shift lever ball. The nylon cup "bearing" is often suggested for replacement, but I haven't seen one that is worn out. This is easy to check by just popping up your shift boot. Don't spend the money unless you can see that the shift ball is sloppy in the brace.

The brace connects to the transmission with a rubber sleeve. This is difficult to reach, but might be part of the looseness.
25-11-1-220-832, Shift arm to transmission bearing sleeve 26mm, 8.00/6.80
Superceded by 25-11-7-519-669
If you replace it with a nylon spacer and washers (a few dollars at the hardware store) you'll get the same effect as the UUC kit: coupling vibration directly to the shift handle. Try replacing with a new rubber sleeve before deciding that a rigid sleeve is actually better.