Vapor Lock? - My Issue is Vapor Lock? Causes? Test?
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-Dave
2003 Lincoln Towncar | 1992 BMW 325iC | 1968 Cadillac Deville
Need some help figuring out the ETM? -
The only way I was finally able to find it was the pump was I got lucky enough to replicate the "non-working" time at home by taking it for a drive, coming home, turning it off, wait about 5 minutes and the try to restart it. It "only" took about 4 attempts to finally get it to not start. Kinda weird when you get in a car to start it, and it starts, yet you're disappointed. Diagnosing the problem, I had the terminals in the relay jumped and no pump activity(Naturally, you think bad fuel pump, but I had done this test countless times during the problem period and the pump would fire right up). Took out the back seat and with a multimeter was able to realize the lead was getting the signal. I bumped the fuel pump by accident and it fired right up. So for the next two days waiting to get a pump, I had the back seat out, and when it wouldn't co-operate and start, I had to tap on the top of the fuel pump with a screwdriver.Keith
"Die feine Art, schnell zu sein."
"I don't have a gambling problem, my gambling pays for my e30 addiction."Comment
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With the pump my issue is this... I know how it works and how it functions but if it is not liking being "hot" then running it at a 1/4 tank it would have some problem while running or hell may even lock up while running? This issue happens with lots of fuel, low fuel etc...
This weekend I am going to play with it :( I worked on cars for a living so i hate diag now. I just like to replace parts and it works better heheComment
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///Monstrosity. (OO≡≡[][]≡≡OO)
Aside from showing yourself to be offensive, lacking experience and ignorant in the ways of business, you're also illiterate and imprudent. Beyond that, your sense of liability is severely impaired.
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I have had this identical same issue with my 88 325is. I just replaced the DME temp ref sensor with a new one so I hope this address the issue. It is the same type of intermittent start specially on cool days but once every other week.
The other part to ck is the check valve on the fuel pump. This valve is suppose to help maintain pressure on the fuel line and thus prevent evaporation of the fuel due to heat soak. I read about this one in Bimmer Forums. The poster had similar sypmtons and apparently this $3 part fixed it.
The dealer will claim that the ck valve is not sold individually from the pump, but apparently this 5 series parts is compatible and does the same job plus is external to the pump.
If you dont hear from me again in this post assume the DME ref coolant sender was the fix. I will repost if the issue re-appears and let you all know if the checkvalve fixed it.sigpic
- 0.05s and 0.1s FTW!!!Comment
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here is the link from bimmer forums
Bimmerforums is the preferred online BMW Forum and community for BMW owners. At Bimmerforums, you will find technical how-to information maintenance specifics audio advice wheel and tire combinations and model specific details not found anywhere else. Our professionals are here to help make sure you find the answers you need to your questions and our community is here to help other brainstorm ideas for the future.
"16 14 9 068 988 current price looks to be $2.77"
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/535ihot_start.asp <- procedure for an E34, but the same applies for the E30. Remove the rear seat bottom (pull up at the front) and the access panel on the P/S of the car to gain access to the top of the fuel pump. Make sure you get the proper line (pressure not return) when you install the valve.
more from bimmer forum
Diagnosis:
The check valve in the main fuel pump was leaking allowing the fuel injector rail residual pressure to
bleed off resulting in formation of a huge fuel vapor bubble in the fuel rail and back down the fuel line toward the pump.
The extra cranking time was needed by the fuel pump to recompress and
eliminate the fuel vapor bubble in the line and repressurize the fuel injector rail.
Installation can be anywhere in the fuel pressure line but next to the main pressure pump is best.
It is a two screw clamp job.
This part is basically just a lenth of hose with a check valve (one way valve).
You cut into the hose leading towards the engine from the fuel pump and use hose clamps (included in the kit) to splice this in.
I took the back seat out and spliced it in using the little access panel on the passenger side.
I wish I could be more descriptive but I did this over a year ago...hopefully that helps you.
Summary: This is an external check valve that is spliced into the fuel line.
This way, when you shut off the car, the line remains full of fuel,
so when it comes time to start the car again you do not have a long crank time waiting for the fuel to travel the length of the line."sigpic
- 0.05s and 0.1s FTW!!!Comment
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Excellent
I think this is my problem! Getting new injectors next weekend with new pintle/o-rings/cleanedComment
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Last edited by Doughnut; 10-28-2007, 03:25 AM.///Monstrosity. (OO≡≡[][]≡≡OO)
Aside from showing yourself to be offensive, lacking experience and ignorant in the ways of business, you're also illiterate and imprudent. Beyond that, your sense of liability is severely impaired.
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How did you go with the injectors and check valve??///Monstrosity. (OO≡≡[][]≡≡OO)
Aside from showing yourself to be offensive, lacking experience and ignorant in the ways of business, you're also illiterate and imprudent. Beyond that, your sense of liability is severely impaired.
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Well the check valve makes it WAYYYYYYYY better
Still a little rough sometimes.
Didn't have time to do the injectors. Will report backComment
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well the ck valve didnt fix it either, but I can now crank it longer when it vapor locks and starts up after about 3-5 seconds. Before it wouldnt even want to start till after 3-4 times of long cranking.
Guess I am left with the fuel pump or carbon canister Given I have replaced everything else.sigpic
- 0.05s and 0.1s FTW!!!Comment
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