Heater issue...someone help please!

[transatlantic0207]

My heater is blowing out 'cool' air on my e30

It appears that my coolant level is fine from checking the resevoir, I am not sure how to get into the radiator to check without taking out of the engine bay as there is no cap or anything for me to check on it. (it's a small behr radiator for a 325i)
My A/C works fine...and I did have heat at some point I can't remember last time I turned it on. My blower only works on setting 4 but that hasn't been an issue to me yet and I don't think it has to do with this problem.
I also checked the oil and there is no foam so I can safely assume that is not a head leak

It starting to get cold over and I need heat, someone please lend me their expertise!

[MA325is88]

Your blower problem is the resistor mounted inside next to the fan. Your heat problem is more than likely the valve under the dash.

[transatlantic0207]

here's the kicker....i went to check the resistor panel and its not in the place it usually is. I believe I have a different blower because the resistor panel is not there
where under the dash is the valve? is it easy to get to/fix?

This is the heater setup I have behind the firewall

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1231&mospid=47263&btnr=64_0523&hg=64&fg=15

This is the radiator setup I have

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1231&mospid=47263&btnr=17_0018&hg=17&fg=05

[lordofthewaters]

The resistor plugs into the blower assembly between the fans under the hood.

Sounds to me like you maybe have air in your cooling system, or a clog.

[transatlantic0207]

In the setup I have there is not a resistor inbetween the blower

my last e30 was a us-spec 325e and there was a resistor inbetween the blower that I could remove and I could clean the contacts and then my blower would work on all four settings

I currently have a euro-spec 325i and the blower motor is different with no resistor inbetween the motor, and I don't know where the resistor is. I put a link to the realoem diagram of the setup i have above

My main problem is that my heater is blowing cool air...How would bleed the system to get the air out? if thats what I need to do

[lordofthewaters]

Did you open the panel and look? Or are you just going by realoem? The resistor isn't listed for either of my cars there either and I KNOW they are there.

Jack up or run the car on ramps. Start the car and have the heat on full. When it warms up turn the bleeder screw on the t-stat, and squeeze the hoses to push the air through. That's the quick description.

[transatlantic0207]

no i looked when I went to replace the resistor it wasn't there and to my surprise the blower setup was different

ok i'll do that later this afternoon

[lordofthewaters]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...47&hg=64&fg=35

Look at this diagram. I just went back to the Heating and air page and chose housing parts from the link you have here, and it brought up this picture with the resistor.

You apparently have the aluminium inlet, with the microfilter option.

[transatlantic0207]

it doesn't show where the resistor pops in. I am really confused now

is this a dash removal job??

[ches]

here's the kicker....i went to check the resistor panel and its not in the place it usually is. I believe I have a different blower because the resistor panel is not there
where under the dash is the valve? is it easy to get to/fix?

This is the heater setup I have behind the firewall

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1231&mospid=47263&btnr=64_0523&hg=64&fg=15

This is the radiator setup I have
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...18&hg=17&fg=05

I am sorry that you have this style heater core. If you need to replace it, you have no choice but to remove the entire dash. Or you can do what I did:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=835711

[transatlantic0207]

damn so i MUST remove the dash??? can i diagnose without removing the dash?
Is there anything I can do from the firewall access point?

[ches]

damn so i MUST remove the dash??? can i diagnose without removing the dash?
Is there anything I can do from the firewall access point?

You only have to remove the dash if you are replacing the core. For diagostics, I can suggest first to undo the plug on top of the heater valve. The valve is open without power and is shut when there is 12v. If you are getting heat with the power off, you need to just replace the valve.

Checking the flow with a hose doesn't really do much. My old core was flowing perfectlly but it was just not producing heat. But if you want to check, you just un-do the 2 hoses at the fire wall on the engine compartment side. Stick a garden hose in, the lower one is in and upper one is out.

When you car is on with heat to the max, is your upper hose hot?

[UNHCLL]

before you begin ripping your entire car apart....


start the car and let it idle.
once the car is fully up to temp, turn on your heat.
DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR, KEEP IT SITTING IN ONE PLACE.
If you get luke warm air from the vents... now drive the car.
If that warm air immediately goes away once the car is moving:

You're hoses are reversed going into the firewall. Remove and reverse them and you should have working heat.

-C

[transatlantic0207]

ok Im going to try that now, if it works before I reverse the hoses, why did I have hot air before with the hoses setup the way they are right now? and how come I dont now?

[transatlantic0207]

ok i let it idle like you said and there was lukewarm air but it didn't change when I drove it it stayed the same temp.