Pardon the copy from the e34 forum but m20 is m20, except that my son's '87 325is doesn't leak a drop as it approaches 300k, and my typing is s l o w.
'89 525 w 167k developed three oil leaks over what seemed like a short time. Oil leak on our drive bad, on upcoming hosted weekend, unacceptable.
Three leak locations:
Banjo bolt on PS pump at input line from reservoir.
Winfred fix- Used side cutters to pinch factory clamp on large hose at reservoir.
Front crank seal.
Shows as drips off the AC mount bracket. Cut in half one Oil absorbent sheet (OAS), pn276310, $1.69 from Westmarine.com or any marine supply shop. To hold the OAS in place, stuff most of the sheet up into the hole on the bottom of the bracket. Leave just enough out to tie across the lowest edge of the bracket with some light wire threaded thru the sheet.
Rear crank seal drips off the lowest bolts on bell housing.
Cut standard antifeeze bottle the long way to make shallow "pan" about 3/4 inch deep. Fold the other half fo the OAS to fiit the "pan" and slide from left side over the crossmember/wishbone. "Pan" flexes just a bit to hold the OAS in place.
Two hundred fifty mile drive to Charleston, and parked for two days w/o leaking a single drop on the drive. OAS absorbs oil but not water. Similar to stuff used in the Exxon Valdez oil spill.
Disclaimer: May not work for everyone but for now I claim the record for lowest cost "fixes" for m20 front and rear crank seal leaks.
'89 525 w 167k developed three oil leaks over what seemed like a short time. Oil leak on our drive bad, on upcoming hosted weekend, unacceptable.
Three leak locations:
Banjo bolt on PS pump at input line from reservoir.
Winfred fix- Used side cutters to pinch factory clamp on large hose at reservoir.
Front crank seal.
Shows as drips off the AC mount bracket. Cut in half one Oil absorbent sheet (OAS), pn276310, $1.69 from Westmarine.com or any marine supply shop. To hold the OAS in place, stuff most of the sheet up into the hole on the bottom of the bracket. Leave just enough out to tie across the lowest edge of the bracket with some light wire threaded thru the sheet.
Rear crank seal drips off the lowest bolts on bell housing.
Cut standard antifeeze bottle the long way to make shallow "pan" about 3/4 inch deep. Fold the other half fo the OAS to fiit the "pan" and slide from left side over the crossmember/wishbone. "Pan" flexes just a bit to hold the OAS in place.
Two hundred fifty mile drive to Charleston, and parked for two days w/o leaking a single drop on the drive. OAS absorbs oil but not water. Similar to stuff used in the Exxon Valdez oil spill.
Disclaimer: May not work for everyone but for now I claim the record for lowest cost "fixes" for m20 front and rear crank seal leaks.
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