possible ignition issues + a few more

[UDM Motorsport]

Hi
This is happening to a 87 325is.

1) Sometimes it takes a long time to start the car, where it turns over about 6-10 times before it starts, and sometimes it starts up right away.
I just installed new cap, rotor and plugs and its still the same...anything else that can cause this?

2) On friday my speedo went nuts for a bit, the speedo all of a sudden went dead...but the car still drove...but when i rev to about 4000 rpm i felt a studder or something...and after about 5 minutes it went away and all is fine.
Then this morning...the speedo went crazy - was fluctuating quite a bit...by about 2000rpms up and down and after 2 minutes it was fine....so just curious

3) my left turn signal is messed up....sometimes it blinks normal, then it blinks super fast, as though a bulb is dead. the rear bulb is fine. but the front seems to be the issue. I put in a new bulb and it still occurs as such....any ideas?

thanks
franklin

[e30Matt]

1) Cold start valve? Does the engine start easier when it's warm?

2) SI batteries.

3) Wiring?

[BahnE30]

1) if it starts harder when warm it's the starter, if the other way around probably cold start valve
2) Si Batteries, or maybe loose connections on the diff

3) the housing the bulb sits in is a little bent and when you blinkers decide they don't want to blink inside the car they do but it goes super fast,

yeah, simple fixes should take about 2-3 hours to fix it all depending on if you've done it before

[UDM Motorsport]

actually...the car starts better when its cold...and this issue normally happens when the car is warmed up....then when i stop somewhere for a bit, then start again.

thanks
franklin

[iXer]

I have the same issue with cold starts being easy and warm starts taking a longer time cranking. From what I could tell this has to do with a fuel pressure drop combined with underhood temperatures causing gas to form in the fuel injector rail. There's a valve in the fuel pump that is designed to keep the pressure up after the pump, but with time it starts to leak and the problem goes away with a new fuel pump or a control valve placed in the engine bay before the fuel rail.. One way to see this as a problem is to measure the fuel pressure just before the regulator on the fuel rail, after running the engine the fuel pressure shouldn't drop over time.. how much drop is acceptable I don't know.

Long explanation, and I don't have much too back it up with as I haven't tried it on my own car.

[Brew]

I'm almost positive m20b25's do not have cold start valves.

Try checking your coil. The Bentley has some specs for the proper resistance between the terminals.