Questions about distributor on M10.

[Psychomofo]

Okay I'm thinking that my distributor is the cause of my cars problems. When you first start it up it doesn't want to idle. Whenever the revs drop below 1k and I try to give it gas to keep it running it backfires through the intake. Also, I don't think I'm getting 100% "throttle" even though the TB opens fully. It seems to pull harder at 3500 and BELOW. The revs actually begin to "slow down" above 3500rpms. I've noticed that with the cap off of the distributor that if the rotor is turned clockwise, I believe that's right, it will raise up on the gear. Is that normal, or not? Does the cap keep this from happening? If I hold down on the rotor and try turning it that doesn't happen. What do I need to do to get my car running right? Is there a possibility of my timing chain needing a replacement?

[grlaneriejr]

Try setting your timing properly. Then, come back and check it after about 50 miles. If the timing changed, you need a new timing belt, adjuster, etc.

Sounds like timing problem to me. Set the timing correctly, then adjust your ICV to get the idle revs where you want them.

If that doesn't do it, check your coolant temp. sensor.

Hope this helps.

[rs4pro3]

it's most likely a timing problem. The 84 318i I purchased last summer wouldn't start and would back fire out of the intake but this was due to the #1 and #4 lead being reversed. Your timing is off as it's firing a spark plug when the intake valve is open. I wouldn't drive the car any more untill you fix it. Adjusting the timing is almost a 2 person job as YOu have to shine the light threw a little hole in the tranny bellhousing, then you need some one else to rotate the distrubutor.

[BavarianBimmer]

Dont' think your problem is a timing chain problem
it's more an improper timing
do like said and set your timing right

[Psychomofo]

the timing is set right. also, i thought to set the timing you had to line up a degree mark on the crank pulley to a mark on the front of the engine. that's normally how you do it, and that's how i did it. timing should be 15 degrees before TDC at 2500 rpms, right? if so, that is what the timing is. i left out in my first post that after the car warms up it runs fine except for the fact that it doesn't seem like i have "full throttle". anyone have any ideas about that?

[rs4pro3]

those marks are for TDC. You need to shine a timing light into the little hole on the tranny bellhousing and rotate the distrubtor untill you get the pin on the flywheel to line up with the line on the bellhousing. The Haynes and Bently manuals cover the proces very well.

[grlaneriejr]

on the M10 engine, there is no "timing set marks" on the front of the engine. there is a oval shaped hole on top of the tranny bellhousing that you have to shine your light through to set the timing. If you have this on the front, someone adapted one and might have got it off a couple of degrees.

if your timing is right, and your timing chain is not stretched at all (the timing stays set), check your coolant temp sensor. if it sends the wrong info to the computer, your car will think it's running at 100 deg. when it really is at 180 deg. This will make the car run all wrong.

try this

[BavarianBimmer]

do you've got any specs for testing an coolant temp sensor on an M10 ? :idea:
It may be helpfull for me too ;)

[Psychomofo]

FIXED...sort of. There were some vaccuum lines that were in the wrong place=no timing advance. Now the car idles at 1500rpms though. :( Screw is all the way in on ICV, and the stop screw on the throttle body is nearly all the way out. Should I try to reset the timing? Maybe it is now advanced too far?