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news on my weird clutch issue

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    news on my weird clutch issue

    ok, i took the slave off to bleed, did the reverse bleed like chris advised, and the only thing that changed is that the clutch has half the normal "spring" to it then what it did. so if you go about half the normal travel, it will spring back up (probably normal) but when you pass that, it goes to the floor. im guessing its the clutch master cyl??? looks like ill probably just replace the two.

    #2
    long read but is this true?

    Both the clutch hydraulics and the brake system share the same fluid
    reservoir. This might sound unwise, but the system is designed so that
    they are partially isolated. The clutch system has taps about halfway
    up the resevior so that a clutch leak won't keep the brakes from
    working. Similarly, the a brake system leak should not cause immediate
    clutch failure. In normal operation, without leaks, the clutch won't
    pump fluid into or out of reservoir, and it has a small reserve in the
    resevior tap and hose.

    If the clutch stops working due to lack of brake fluid, the likely cause
    is a leak in the clutch system rather than wear or just "low fluid".
    You should immediately suspect a leak in the output ("slave") cylinder,
    since leaks in the input ("master") cylinder are usually internal to the
    cylinder and don't result in fluid loss, or cause obvious wetness on the
    carpet.

    Replacing the output cylinder is easy, if you can get under the car.
    It's just undoing the fluid hose with a flare wrench and removing the
    two mounting bolts. The fluid hose, like most of the hydraulic system,
    needs an unusual size, 11,12 or 14mm. The cylinder mounting bolts are
    standard 13mm ones, although you likely will need a long extension for
    the top one.

    Replacing the input cylinder is more awkward and time consuming,
    although certainly not difficult. You can even do it without getting
    under the car.

    One you replace the problem part, you will need to get new fluid into
    the system. The clutch system is self bleeding, at least it is once you
    get a little fluid pumping. It might require a hundred or so pumps,
    returning the pedal to the top of its throw by hand each time, to get it
    started. Since you'll be hunched over the driver's side pumping up and
    down for five minutes or so, I don't recommend doing this at a highway
    rest stop at night.

    Once the pedal returns on its own it takes just a few more strokes to
    clear the rest of the air from the clutch lines. Any remaining tiny
    bubbles will work themselves out over the next few days.

    You'll find some misunderstanding on this point. The clutch system
    really is self bleeding. The "bleeder valve" on the output cylinder is
    there to flush old fluid, rather than bleed out air. Unlike the brake
    system there are no local high points, and the volume of fluid moved is
    much greater than the volume in the hose. With the brake system the
    geometry forces a high point at each caliper, and the design goal is
    minimal pedal travel and thus little fluid flow.

    Comment


      #3
      Whats your point ?
      Don't be a noob all your life , take your car to someone that knows what the hell they are doing rather than looking for advice from internet dweebs that the majority of have have never been under their car anyway .

      E30 M3 / E30 325is / E34 525iT / E34 535i

      Comment


        #4
        All of that sounds true to me, but by reverse bleeding like I described, you should not have to wait for the 'self-bleed'

        If you look at the clutch pedal, the arm will have a spring attached to it which then pivots on the pedal bracket. Make sure the spring is still in place (attached to the clutch pedal arm and in the notch on the pedal bracket). It actually sounds like the spring is fine (which is what actually pushes the pedal back up when it reaches about half travel).

        It won't ever hurt to change the clutch cylinders, so you may want to go ahead and do it if you don't know how old they are.

        Comment


          #5
          Chris ,thats decent advice on bleeding but our clutch systems are actually able to bleed themsleves just by driving , you don't even have to crack the bleeder screw and it will all work itself out eventually .

          Also our cars can operate/function normally and properly without any return spring on the clutch pedal .

          E30 M3 / E30 325is / E34 525iT / E34 535i

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            #6
            Normally? I don't think so. My pedal would only return halfway up and would barely disengage the clutch at the bottom of travel.

            Also, its hard to drive if you don't have the clutch. Yeah, it will work its self out, but cycling the rod on the slave will get the air out in a few seconds.

            Comment


              #7
              yea i reverse bled it like you said but still no luck.

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