ok, i took the slave off to bleed, did the reverse bleed like chris advised, and the only thing that changed is that the clutch has half the normal "spring" to it then what it did. so if you go about half the normal travel, it will spring back up (probably normal) but when you pass that, it goes to the floor. im guessing its the clutch master cyl??? looks like ill probably just replace the two.
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long read but is this true?
Both the clutch hydraulics and the brake system share the same fluid
reservoir. This might sound unwise, but the system is designed so that
they are partially isolated. The clutch system has taps about halfway
up the resevior so that a clutch leak won't keep the brakes from
working. Similarly, the a brake system leak should not cause immediate
clutch failure. In normal operation, without leaks, the clutch won't
pump fluid into or out of reservoir, and it has a small reserve in the
resevior tap and hose.
If the clutch stops working due to lack of brake fluid, the likely cause
is a leak in the clutch system rather than wear or just "low fluid".
You should immediately suspect a leak in the output ("slave") cylinder,
since leaks in the input ("master") cylinder are usually internal to the
cylinder and don't result in fluid loss, or cause obvious wetness on the
carpet.
Replacing the output cylinder is easy, if you can get under the car.
It's just undoing the fluid hose with a flare wrench and removing the
two mounting bolts. The fluid hose, like most of the hydraulic system,
needs an unusual size, 11,12 or 14mm. The cylinder mounting bolts are
standard 13mm ones, although you likely will need a long extension for
the top one.
Replacing the input cylinder is more awkward and time consuming,
although certainly not difficult. You can even do it without getting
under the car.
One you replace the problem part, you will need to get new fluid into
the system. The clutch system is self bleeding, at least it is once you
get a little fluid pumping. It might require a hundred or so pumps,
returning the pedal to the top of its throw by hand each time, to get it
started. Since you'll be hunched over the driver's side pumping up and
down for five minutes or so, I don't recommend doing this at a highway
rest stop at night.
Once the pedal returns on its own it takes just a few more strokes to
clear the rest of the air from the clutch lines. Any remaining tiny
bubbles will work themselves out over the next few days.
You'll find some misunderstanding on this point. The clutch system
really is self bleeding. The "bleeder valve" on the output cylinder is
there to flush old fluid, rather than bleed out air. Unlike the brake
system there are no local high points, and the volume of fluid moved is
much greater than the volume in the hose. With the brake system the
geometry forces a high point at each caliper, and the design goal is
minimal pedal travel and thus little fluid flow.
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All of that sounds true to me, but by reverse bleeding like I described, you should not have to wait for the 'self-bleed'
If you look at the clutch pedal, the arm will have a spring attached to it which then pivots on the pedal bracket. Make sure the spring is still in place (attached to the clutch pedal arm and in the notch on the pedal bracket). It actually sounds like the spring is fine (which is what actually pushes the pedal back up when it reaches about half travel).
It won't ever hurt to change the clutch cylinders, so you may want to go ahead and do it if you don't know how old they are.
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Chris ,thats decent advice on bleeding but our clutch systems are actually able to bleed themsleves just by driving , you don't even have to crack the bleeder screw and it will all work itself out eventually .
Also our cars can operate/function normally and properly without any return spring on the clutch pedal .
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