$500 in parts- now have stumbling issue

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  • Amcubayt
    replied
    Let’s revive this thread! I’m having the same issues. Did you ever fix your front end post your accident and did you solve you idling issue?

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  • Semblance
    replied
    ^ dude. You're pissing on a 5 year old thread. Not sure I'd be calling anyone an idiot.

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  • Dirty325ix
    replied
    Good point
    VVVV
    Last edited by Dirty325ix; 04-23-2014, 03:32 PM. Reason: meh

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  • cabriodster87
    replied
    Pinch the fuel return line momentarily with needle nose pliers, see if that smooths idle.
    LMK

    EDIT:I assume you have replaced the fuel filter.
    Last edited by cabriodster87; 04-22-2014, 09:30 PM.

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  • Coy325i
    replied
    So... was this ever resolved? I have the exact idle issue you are describing.

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  • bimmerboy12
    replied
    ALL- sorry for not replying right away- I hit a deer and smashed my hood, fender, grill, ellips, iS lip, valance, and dented in the door. Concentrating on that right now, but will get back to the idle issue shortly. Thanks for all the support!

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  • OrganicMechanic
    replied
    Originally posted by bimmerboy12
    Decided to do some preventitive maintenance on my perfectly running 88 325i cabby, so did the following:

    Oil pan gasket (shortcut method used)
    valve cover gasket
    camshaft seal and o-ring
    timing belt
    reference sensor
    coolant temp sensor
    wires
    cap
    rotor
    belts
    hoses
    water pump
    plugs
    coolant flush

    I got everything at Bavarian. I double checked all my electrical connections and cleaned with contact cleaner.

    SO, when it started, it ran pretty good cold, but once it started warming up, started stumbling at idle. I can rev it up and it sounds good.

    Don't suspect ICV since it ran fine before.
    Check engine light was on right after finishing installing the parts, but disconnected battery and reconnected and it was not on after that.

    What the flying f***.

    Any help would be appreciated- you guys have bailed me out in the past so don't let me down now!
    (thats you stereoinstaller)
    check your timing belt marks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Republic
    replied
    Not sure what the "short cut method" is for replacing the oil pan gasket, but revisit to make sure correct. No leaks, right?

    How does the ground cable look from your Oil Pan to the driver-side chassis? New or shotty? replace if needed.

    Have you replaced your Intake Manifold Gaskets? PITA, but worth a look. If going to do so, replace your Oil Down pipe O-rings and washers as well.

    In addition, anything replaced with non-oem or peer-validated aftermarket parts, I would consider replacing again.

    I would say good luck, but after 7 months of trial and error, that would sound sarcastic.

    Godspeed.

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  • ClassicScot
    replied
    i dont know if this would cause a problem.... exhaust manifold gaskets. Maybe intake manifold gaskets. You are just looking for something that could be wrong. Every little thing. Im guessing that the things i said are vacuum leaks. this was probably already suggested, try a known working ecu. My friends e30 just stopped working, it was turing but not starting, got good spark, and power from the coil. The ecu was pooched.

    good luck keep us posted

    Andy

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  • bimmerboy12
    replied
    Originally posted by Spinning Tires
    I'm gonna go with vacuum leak. Theres a hose coming out of the bottom of the intake to the charcoal canister that is often over looked also the hose on the valve cover gets cracked. Usually a significant vacuum leak will trigger a CEL at idle
    If you read the previous posts, I have nearly exhausted every opportunity for a vacuum leak to exist. I replaced the throttle body to valve cover hose just because. I will double check or replace the hose from intake to canister. Remember I am getting 14.5 in Hg which is OK according to Bentley. Thank you for the heads up I will check it out and let you know.

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  • Spinning Tires
    replied
    I'm gonna go with vacuum leak. Theres a hose coming out of the bottom of the intake to the charcoal canister that is often over looked also the hose on the valve cover gets cracked. Usually a significant vacuum leak will trigger a CEL at idle

    Leave a comment:


  • bimmerboy12
    replied
    UPDATE AGAIN: I swapped in a fuel pump I knew worked and nothing changed.

    One thing I noticed is that the idle is definitely worse some times more than others. Seems like it is better with the warmer weather.

    PLEASE give me some more things to try.
    -b

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  • bimmerboy12
    replied
    UPDATE:
    I re-bled the coolant system thoroughly and there was no air. I sprayed electrical contact cleaner on male and female connections on all injectors.

    No improvement. Same shitty idle.

    Next I will swap a fuel pump in since I have a spare and see what happens.

    Leave a comment:


  • thereisnoyun
    replied
    replacing worn parts like these, alot of times can trigger sensor issue. Either from water getting on plugs when changing thermostat or water pump, or simply flushing the items can cause the sensors that were overdue to start acting up.

    I would look at all the connectors on the sensor first. Even if you ahve done it, I would do it again. I say connection is your culprit if you check all the item with ohm meter.

    I would make a list and do the scientific method and cross it out as you go. I know you probably ahve been doing this, but I dont know how diligently you have done them.

    - cap, rotor, wire, coilpack, injectors, spark plugs, coolant sensors, connectors, ECU connection etc.

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  • bimmerboy12
    replied
    Originally posted by ClassicScot
    any news on this i really want to know how this turned out.. hope you got it figured out.
    Sorry, I didn't have time to work on it, worked on the power top on my wife's car all weekend. I will do a coolant bleed tonight or tomorrow and swap a fuel pump I have laying around just in case. I'll update ASAP.
    Thanks again for all the suggestions.

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