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    Seized DS u-joints?

    i'm hoping someone here can help me identify if my u-joints are seized

    i just changed my csb and guibo on the weekend because of a loud thumping noise from under the car. the csb mount was f**ked the metal hoop around the rubber was actually cracked in half on one side.

    i still feel a vibration under acceleration but now its not a thump so much as a vibration.

    the centering guide on the front of the ds looked to be in good condition. the u-joints on my ds were pretty stiff and didnt want to flex much whn i was reinstalling the ds. i thought this was a good thing initially but after reading a few posts on here it started wondering. how stiff should u-joints be? and why the f**k would they seize i thought u-joints got looser with age

    '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

    #2
    The u-joints should move freely and smoothly, with no notchiness at all. They get stiff and notchy because the metal on metal movement wears a 'groove' in the metal over time.

    Sounds to me that you need to purchase a refurbished/rebuilt driveshaft-been there, done that on a few of these E30's and that fixes the vibration.
    Eric Giles
    '20 M2 CS
    '04 M3
    '11 X5 35D
    '87 325is
    '91 325i Sport

    There are few things more expensive than a cheap BMW...

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      #3
      check your guibo?
      I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.

      Paypal: vdang5@gmail.com

      Delta Auto Care
      2875-C Towerview Road
      Herndon, VA
      703.435.1375

      My Feedback Thread: Evil_Twin

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        #4
        I'll second Eric's suggestion that you need a new or rebuilt drive shaft. In almost all cases, a failure of the rubber mount of the CSB is due to binding u-joints in the drive shaft. Unless both are replaced at the same time, the new CSB will have a short life.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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          #5
          Third on the suggestion...the CSB may have been at fault for destroying the U-joint, but the U-joints will most defintely destroy the new Center Bearing if they are vibrating alot...
          sigpic
          2001 330i - In the garage.
          1986 335is - 325e with Euro 735 M30B34, Under Construction.
          1989 E30 ///M3 - Sold.
          1975 2002 - Sold.

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            #6
            E30 rebuilt driveshafts range from $300 at a generic parts house to $700 from a BMW high performance shop. Is there a substantial difference in quality to justify the difference in cost?
            "If the sky were to fall tomorrow, the tall would die first."

            -Dr. Paul Forrester



            Do I LOOK like I need a psychological evaluation???

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              #7
              Originally posted by funcrew View Post
              E30 rebuilt driveshafts range from $300 at a generic parts house to $700 from a BMW high performance shop. Is there a substantial difference in quality to justify the difference in cost?
              Fuck that, I can pull several from the junk yard for $300
              Originally posted by KingB
              Scratch my back and I buy a prostitute for you, to rub your balls. HAHA now thats some funny shit.

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                #8
                The key word there being REFURBISHED. A used driveshaft might be good, or it might not. You're taking a chance.

                This guy is selling one, he might still have it:



                This place is supposed to be good:

                Since 1974 Driveline Service of Portland, Inc. has been building and repairing driveshafts for customers throughout North America.


                If you search for "rebuilt driveshaft", you'll get a lot of hits.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by HST View Post
                  Fuck that, I can pull several from the junk yard for $300
                  bad idea. when my rear u-joint got loose about a year ago I swapped in a spare from a car I parted out and it was just as bad! These cars are old and parts get worn out. Get a rebuild!

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                    #10
                    I have ordered two driveshafts from this place: http://www.wholesaleimportparts.com/BMW_Driveshaft.php One was for my '87 325 eta, the other for my '88 M3. I did have a problem with the first driveshaft I got for the 325-during a 1st-2nd shift at redline, one of the welds on the driveshaft broke. It wasn't until I pulled the transmission two more times and pulled the flywheel twice that I finally discovered it was the driveshaft making those LOUD screeching noise. You would think something like that would be easy to pinpoint, but it's really not. Caused me a ton of headaches and extra labor, but they overnighted me a replacement and it has been fine ever since.

                    The one for the M3 has been great also, so the first 325 driveshaft was just a fluke I guess. I would use them again.
                    Eric Giles
                    '20 M2 CS
                    '04 M3
                    '11 X5 35D
                    '87 325is
                    '91 325i Sport

                    There are few things more expensive than a cheap BMW...

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by funcrew View Post
                      E30 rebuilt driveshafts range from $300 at a generic parts house to $700 from a BMW high performance shop. Is there a substantial difference in quality to justify the difference in cost?
                      I would be interested to know what procedure they use on the BMW Hi-Po drivshafts and what makes them worth the cost?

                      I get my custom rebuilt from a local rebuilder. It took me 3 driveshaft shops before I found this place.

                      They rebuild them with heavy duty 'spicer' u-joints Lots of places simply re-stake them, which is actually weak and can allow the u-joint to walk. The reason for the weakness in this procedure is that they are already staked originally, you can not stake them on the same spot so now you have to work with less metal to re-stake them.

                      My rebuilder uses steel spacers to precisely locate the u-joint, that are then welded into place. I have done over a dozen E30 driveshafts and a custom E21 driveshaft. I can have the shafts shortened to my specs or what ever I desire they can do it. They specialize in custom driveline work for race cars and desert runners where strength and reliability are paramount.

                      Each section of driveshaft is then serialized and put into a database, so in the future if you ever need service you can call them with the serial number and they can give you the exact specs of what was done to the driveshaft and when it was serviced/rebuilt.

                      I just did one in a 318i last week and just got another one back today for a 89 325is.

                      The base cost is $250 for the build and balance and then the CSB and flex disk are extra plus the labor cost of installing.

                      Also whether I install it or I just have it done for you, new bolts and nuts are always included.

                      Here are some picture of a few of the last ones I have had done.

                      M42 318i


                      New Hardware

                      These 2 where for a E30/M30 swap and a E21 M20 5 speed swap. Both custom shortened.

                      Last edited by peerless; 10-02-2008, 05:02 PM.

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                        #12
                        thanks for the input guess i need a new driveshaft...damnit

                        '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

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