AC dryer/receiver question for R134a conversion?

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  • heyzerg77
    Noobie
    • Nov 2003
    • 38

    #1

    AC dryer/receiver question for R134a conversion?

    I will do a R134 conversion on my 87 325e soon since it's damn hot now,
    my Old AC system is not working anyway.
    I jsut wonder what kind of AC dryerr/receiver I should consider, Are they all compatible with R134.
    Could I put 91 318is's receiver/ dryer in my car (since it gets a window class to see the AC flow)?

    Thanks
  • bimmerrookie
    Noobie
    • Jun 2004
    • 9

    #2
    You'll need the receiver/drier from an E36 which is compatable with R134. It's only $18.00 at Palican Parts. Also, it uses only a high pressure switch which you can also get at Pelican Parts. I converted mine a couple of weeks ago, which included replacing all o-rings, and my AC blows as cold as 25 degrees. I'm using a compressor from an 85 and have had no trouble so far.

    Comment

    • DSchultz325e
      E30 Enthusiast
      • Aug 2004
      • 1158

      #3
      how much did that whole conversion cost you? i just saw that article the other night and am going to perform the conversion over the winter (its just too damn hot to work on mechanical stuff on my car this time of year). i just need a new compressor.
      I retired my E30 for now...
      E46 323i
      David Schultz

      Comment

      • bimmerrookie
        Noobie
        • Jun 2004
        • 9

        #4
        I got the compressor from the junk yard. The rest of the parts I ordered online from Pelican Parts. If anyone knows where to get them cheaper let me know. The receiver/drier is part# 64-53-8-391-025 and $18.50 each, the pressure switch part# is 64-53-8-390-971 and was $31.20 each, the expansion valve part# is 64-51-1-466-259 and was $18.75 each, and lastly I just didn't want to guess so I bought an o-ring kit part# 09-9808-200 at $36.40 a kit. It went well, just have patience and be sure to flush all the crap out of the system.

        Comment

        • e30evolution
          West Werks
          • Oct 2003
          • 1888

          #5
          as long as you dont break any of the seals you can just put 134a in..... the stuff is cheap so if it leaks out then whatever..... you have to evacuate the system and and make sure to boil all the moisture out.....

          if the old system is not working just because it has lost is charge then i would just slap some 134a in and see how it works before i start to replace parts.... if you have access to a machine then you are looking at about $12 in refrigerant?

          plus if there is any R12 in your system that stuff is like gold.... worth well of 20x's as much as 134

          http://www.westwerksauto.com

          Comment

          • HowzeR
            Member
            • Oct 2003
            • 67

            #6
            hmm

            I just bought a $36 kit from Target.. conversion kit, slapped it in my 88 325is, works perfect, blows ice cold, didnt replace jack sh*t, if it leaks out, then ill recharge it next summer with a whopping $4 can or two of R-134a. The interdynamics kit I used had seal conditioner blah blah for high mileage car... its good stuff.

            Comment

            • clavinZERO
              Hella sick E30
              • Mar 2004
              • 2027

              #7
              all i did was replace the reciever-dryer and put new seals on it. as for the other seals n stuff, the "conversion" or "retrofit" seal kits are total crap. the seals are colored different and the color coating wears off to reveal the same old style seal.... RUBBER!!! oooo! so just top of the oil in that thing and pump it with the r134a or whatever. i think you need to get the valve adapters too.

              "BMW Style 32 Poster-Child"
              HTTP://WWW.CLAVINZERO.COM/e30-5-lug
              **(My Guide to E36 M3/Z3 1.9L 5-lug Swap)
              **

              Comment

              • brodee
                R3VLimited
                • Jan 2004
                • 2914

                #8
                The dryer reallly should be replaced and it's cheap. If you don't then you can get the old oil into the compressor and it will eventually go out on you.

                "Modern cars may be able to outgun it, but few can match its character, its motorsport spirit, and the way it plasters a huge grin on your face at any speed." - Patrick George

                1988 M3 - Track Rat
                1989 325iC M50 Vert
                1989 325i Coupe
                1991 318is
                1995 318ti Club Sport
                2006 330i e90
                2008 Tundra Crewmax

                Comment

                • HowzeR
                  Member
                  • Oct 2003
                  • 67

                  #9
                  oil

                  the kit I had i believe had PAG oil or something along those lines, anyhow it said its compatable with current oil... if mine goes out.... oh well.... im out $34 LoL.

                  Comment

                  • brodee
                    R3VLimited
                    • Jan 2004
                    • 2914

                    #10
                    Ester oil is what you want to use if you have had r12 in it already. That is compatible with both types of freon. Put about 6 ounces in the compressor and 2 in the dryer before installing.

                    "Modern cars may be able to outgun it, but few can match its character, its motorsport spirit, and the way it plasters a huge grin on your face at any speed." - Patrick George

                    1988 M3 - Track Rat
                    1989 325iC M50 Vert
                    1989 325i Coupe
                    1991 318is
                    1995 318ti Club Sport
                    2006 330i e90
                    2008 Tundra Crewmax

                    Comment

                    • grlaneriejr
                      Grease Monkey
                      • Oct 2003
                      • 321

                      #11
                      If you are really worried about the old oil, then pull a vacuum on the system. All you need is a refrigerator compressor motor and rewire it to run backwards, and then some lines.

                      You really should replace the dryer, but it doesn't matter if it's r12 or r134. The deal with the drier is that if there's any moisture in it, it will blow that crap all over your system. If the system's been open for more than 1 day, it's cheap insurance.

                      The kits from autozone and all that (the $35 conversion kits) are fine to use, just pull a vacuum on the system to get rid of all the old oil.

                      hope this helps.

                      Comment

                      • EverWiser
                        Grease Monkey
                        • Aug 2004
                        • 313

                        #12
                        If you're replacing R12 with R134a you have to get as much of the old oil out as possible. It's not a matter of the new and old oils being compatible; its a matter of whether the oil will mix with the type of coolant. If it doesn't mix well it won't lubricate the compressor. Also, mineral oil, which is what R12 used turns to a black gooey acid when mixed with R134a. It will eventually destroy your entire system, starting with your compressor. Do some searches on the internet about this conversion...You'll learn a lot.

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