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M20 to M30 AFM swap

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    M20 to M30 AFM swap

    Got the K&N cone on, got the heat shield, but the AFM electronics seem pretty tough to remove without breaking or bending any of the metal. ANy one know how to do this?? Tried today...no luck.

    I'm desparate people, my car runs too rich. Hopefully this will settle that down until the new O2 sensor goes in. Thanks,

    Don
    - 2000 Audi S4 Stg 2 (sold)
    - house (bought)
    - 1997 Civic Hatch (shaky but driveable)
    - 2010 Sportster 1200 Forty Eight Ed. (vroom)
    - 1991 318is S50B30 (TBA)

    #2
    Drill the screws out, I'd just toss back in the stock AFM untill you get everything taken care off.
    85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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      #3
      I think I have ADD or something, but I stripped the majority of the screws, but a handy power drill made quick worth of them! 8)

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        #4
        Just find the right size drill bit so you don't damage the threads, and you can drill right down the center, and be able to buy new screws and install those.
        On mine 2 out of the 3 came right out but the 3rd had to be drilled out.
        85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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          #5
          well i got all the screws out, but the damn thing didnt seem to move
          yah, I already put the stock afm back in the second i saw the m30 one in action. It sucks, obviously. I'm just having trouble with what to do after the screws are out...you know?
          I noticed that the M30 afm DOES work, but the door opens too wide all the time, and the black disc needs to be extremely tight for the car to even run (I mean the door needs to be really tight). Can't hammer it, have to accelerate slowly.
          - 2000 Audi S4 Stg 2 (sold)
          - house (bought)
          - 1997 Civic Hatch (shaky but driveable)
          - 2010 Sportster 1200 Forty Eight Ed. (vroom)
          - 1991 318is S50B30 (TBA)

          Comment

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