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Timing Belt Tensioner

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    Timing Belt Tensioner

    What do I do if I did not mark the position of the old tensioner so that the new one goes in the same spot?

    Is there a procedure to follow to put the correct amount of tension on the belt?

    #2
    Don't mark it, that is the whole point of adjustability in this case.

    Basically, you want to have it tight enough that you cannot easily bend the belt 1/4 turn, so pretty damn snug.

    Closing SOON!
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    Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

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      #3
      The position of the old tensioner is not important. With the timing belt on and the tensioner lock loose, rotate the engine through two turns of the crank pulley. Then verify that the crank and cam index marks are aligned and tighten the tensioner lock bolt. The tensioner spring will set the correct belt tension.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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        #4
        thanks for your help guys!

        I'm having to redo a T.B job that I had done a couple thousand miles ago. Something went awry because I was getting a noise that almost sounded like lifters rattling from the front of the valve cover. I used the screwdriver stethescope trick to isolate the noise to under the front TB cover. The tensioner itself had loosened and was rattling against the upper TB cover.

        I took off the top cover and noticed quite a bit of slack in the belt too and premature wear on the outside edge of the belt where it was rubbing against the cover due to lack of proper tension.

        I guess I f'ed up the tensioning the first time somehow. I've still got to tear it down to see what loosened up.

        Maybe this time l'll try some loctite. I'm glad I caught the problem before some major engine damage.

        Anyone got a torque setting for the tensioner hold-down bolt?

        I'm going to make sure that Tensioner sucker doesn't move.

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          #5
          15-17ft. lbs.

          '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

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            #6
            Final analysis: Cause of failure was the tensioner itself...it failed, become wonky and caused the belt to wear 1/4" while causing the rattling against the cover. Good to know it wasn't a bolt tightening thing. Thanks for the ft. lbs. though, came in handy!

            So here's proof of the benefits of replacing the tensioner at the same time as the belt. Had I done that 10K ago, I wouldn't be doing the T. belt job again. Cheers

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              #7
              Always replace the tension when replacing the belt. And replace the water pump every other timing belt.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                #8
                I'd replace the water pump each time you do the timing belt.. They're not that expensive.. and it seems like maybe a bearing in mine or im not sure what it is, but my water pump starts making a weird noise around that time I have to change the belt anyway..

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                  #9
                  sounds like your missing the spring

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