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    Heat ?uestion

    I've attached pictures of said issues
    My water pump went and I replaced it and now I have no heat...the system was bled a few times after the procedure....Today I checked all of the hoses and they're hot except for the hose leading to the top valve of the firewall going to the heater, the bottom one is hot
    I've traced the top hose to the bottom of the thermostat housing and I've attached pictures
    Its cold out here and I would very much like some heat, any help would be appreciated



    Currently I am attempting to bleed the system....I got under and saw that the little blue bleeder valve is shot and I cannot turn it so I ran the car for 15-20m and took off the coolant reservoir cap and I am letting it sit for some time (it's ghetto but it's worked before)
    Second I am confused as to where my bleeder hose should lead to...currently I have it just hanging and when it needs to the coolant bleeds on the tierods then onto the street
    in the picture you can see how long my hose is

    ...should it go in one of the holes pictured?

    (OO≡≡[][]≡≡OO) ///Motorsport
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    Originally posted by Steve92E34
    Your car is breathing my air, and so are you.
    AND you are both still slow

    #2
    No heat after cooling system work is usually the result of improper bleeding of the cooling system. A good bleed procedure is:

    1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
    the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
    on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

    2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
    the bleed.

    3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
    temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
    in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
    up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
    warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
    up the coolant as necessary.

    4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds
    several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
    this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
    indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
    repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

    5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
    bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
    few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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