AC System From Scratch - 1989 325i

[bash to fit]

Anyone? Looking for the part numbers for the terminals that clip into that connector in my above post?

Thanks

Well, almost 3 years too late but I'm going through an R134a conversion on my 86 325e and ran into the same problem. I called the dealership and got the pin part number. Unfortunately, it is currently unavailable so I will be splicing the old high pressure switch connector onto the new switch. For the sake of documentation though, below are the part numbers:

Plastic Plug Terminal: 61131378400
Snap-in Receptacle (2x per plug): 61130007441

The snap in receptacle can be found in this diagram: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...89#61130007441

There is rubber molded around the connector/wire to allow it to make a watertight seal. You could probably make a connection work with another female plug from the diagram but it wouldn't be a watertight seal.

[jeffnhiscars]

I was lucky enough to find someone parting a 325 a couple hours away from me and picked up the AC system. It definitely helped me better understand how it all goes together.

A couple follow up questions:

-What are the part numbers for the wiring terminals for the female connector that gets spliced into the car harness for the new pressure switch? I searched and could only find the terminal and not the wires.



-I think I need a new suction line from the firewall to the compressor and I see Four Seasons is the only aftermarket manufacturer of that hose. I'm not familiar with them - is that a decent quality hose?

They are a major after market replacement supplier but much if not all of their stuff is made in China. Good luck finding anything that isn't unless you go OE. I have a hose of theirs that has split but it does have a rather tight bend so not sure I can blame them and it isn't leaking ♂️

[gilber33]

Anyone? Looking for the part numbers for the terminals that clip into that connector in my above post?

Thanks

[gilber33]

I was lucky enough to find someone parting a 325 a couple hours away from me and picked up the AC system. It definitely helped me better understand how it all goes together.

A couple follow up questions:

-What are the part numbers for the wiring terminals for the female connector that gets spliced into the car harness for the new pressure switch? I searched and could only find the terminal and not the wires.



-I think I need a new suction line from the firewall to the compressor and I see Four Seasons is the only aftermarket manufacturer of that hose. I'm not familiar with them - is that a decent quality hose?

[cory58]

Awesome, thanks. Now to find all the AC parts.......!!

I am compiling parts to redo the AC on my touring and found that the best price for OE parts is at Schmiedmann. They are in Europe, so the minimum shipping charge to the USA is $37. No VAT or import duties. I found that the cost difference for AC lines was enough to justify the shipping by just getting 2-3 lines. I've ordered many fragile parts from them and never had a problem. Not a fan of DHL, but the shipping time is also remarkable.

Also agree that Just Needs a Recharge book is a good investment.

[mach schnell]

No, but the center console, lower trim around the HVAC box and glove box will need to come out. And the "fun" part will be getting those hoses through the bulkhead grommet. Patience, patience, patience...

There is a sensor on the driver's side of the evaporator that shuts down the AC if the evaporator freezes. You may want to jumper that or add that to your replacement parts list as that little bugger can drive you crazy if it goes bad.

Another thought, you may want to pick up a copy of Rob Siegel's "Just needs a Recharge The hack mechanic guide to vintage air conditioning". A worthwhile investment if you're new to AC service.

Awesome, thanks. Now to find all the AC parts.......!!

[gilber33]

Keep in mind that the evap probe is very soft so if you replace the evaporator, which does not have a passage for the probe, do not use the probe itself to pierce the fins. I did that and it deflected and blocked the blend door so I had only moderate heat or an entire winter. Use a thin phillips screwdriver to pierce the fins in a straight line before you install it.

Thank you for the pointer! I would have not even known about that.

[jeffnhiscars]

There is no need to remove the console to change out lines, X valve or evaporator...basically anything inside the car other than the HVAC box itself.

Keep in mind that the evap probe is very soft so if you replace the evaporator, which does not have a passage for the probe, do not use the probe itself to pierce the fins. I did that and it deflected and blocked the blend door so I had only moderate heat or an entire winter. Use a thin phillips screwdriver to pierce the fins in a straight line before you install it.

oh...the green switch with the plastic connector is LP and the HP switch has 2 individual male prongs. I actually had a slow leak at the LP switch that had me baffled for years

[gilber33]

Everything behind the dash is still there, my first post is about everything in front of the firewall under the hood. I'm not new to AC service, I've removed them, reassembled them, replaced them, etc. in older Volvo's. This is my first e30 so before I went about reassembling this one, I wanted to make sure that the correct connectors were still in the car and not removed.

[tomstin]

Do you have to remove the dash to install all the lines?

No, but the center console, lower trim around the HVAC box and glove box will need to come out. And the "fun" part will be getting those hoses through the bulkhead grommet. Patience, patience, patience...

There is a sensor on the driver's side of the evaporator that shuts down the AC if the evaporator freezes. You may want to jumper that or add that to your replacement parts list as that little bugger can drive you crazy if it goes bad.

Another thought, you may want to pick up a copy of Rob Siegel's "Just needs a Recharge The hack mechanic guide to vintage air conditioning". A worthwhile investment if you're new to AC service.

[mach schnell]

Do you have to remove the dash to install all the lines?

[gilber33]

The hardest part of the job will probably be vacuuming/filling the system, every component should be fairly accessible.

I’ve had ac systems completely apart and reinstalled and always take it to a shop and they’ve refilled it no problem. They didn’t need access to anything other than the Schroeder valves.

[gilber33]

The first image (3 pin connector with two pins jumped) is the compressor clutch, usually one wire running from behind the clutch on the compressor, and obviously plugs into the pin that's not jumped.

2nd pic is the radiator temp sensor as RogueToaster mentioned.

The 3rd connector is the high or low pressure switch (I forget which) that goes onto the dryer. There is no temp sensor on the dryer. Originally there were two pressure switches, one for high pressure, and one for low pressure. The newer dryers for converting to R134a have a combined high/low switch. So either there's another connector floating around in that area (look up front underneath the headlights), or it's already been jumped. Check out the Google Docs link at the bottom of the first page here to get the official BMW tech bulletin for the conversion:

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...ng-it?t=342398

Good luck!

thank you! I found the other plug tucked into the wire harness.

[roguetoaster]

The hardest part of the job will probably be vacuuming/filling the system, every component should be fairly accessible.

[mach schnell]

Is this a crazy difficult job....?