M20 getting hot

[Dawskip]

Interesting, you should get coolant or air when you open the bleed screw as you are basically opening the system.

But let's back up the bus a minute as we are collectively missing something. How did the overheating start?

car ran great, jsut installed CAtuned silicone lines as a precaution. They don’t a provisional in the hoses for a secondary thermostat by the firewall, so I just removed it. That’s all I did, and now it won’t stay cool

[S.J.1981]

Car is definitely bleed, and I’ve already replaced the fan clutch.

Just to be sure, got to ask.

When you bled the system, was the heater set on max? (max heating)?

I just replaced the intake manifold gaskets a few days ago, it took me a while to bleed the system, it idled a bit hotter than it normally does, i actually overfilled the reservoir a bit to get bubbles coming out of the bleed screw. Then eventually pure coolant and no bubbles and now temp is spot on.

What i also like to do, is to bleed the system with the reservoir cap NOT tightened, then close the cap, wait a few minutes to build pressure, then open and close the screw a few times. If nothing comes out of the bleeder screw and the reservoir is full, close the cap. If the cap is closed, then make certain that the heater is on and let it idle, rev the engine a bit, basically let the system build pressure and it should help.

[Dawskip]

Update:

replaced the water pump belt as it was literally the last price I hadn’t fixed — no cigar.

One thing I did notice is that the left side of my radiator at the top is hot to the touch, however the right side is still cold, not sure if this is normal.

Starting to run out of hope here.

[Dawskip]

Just to be sure, got to ask.

When you bled the system, was the heater set on max? (max heating)?

I just replaced the intake manifold gaskets a few days ago, it took me a while to bleed the system, it idled a bit hotter than it normally does, i actually overfilled the reservoir a bit to get bubbles coming out of the bleed screw. Then eventually pure coolant and no bubbles and now temp is spot on.

What i also like to do, is to bleed the system with the reservoir cap NOT tightened, then close the cap, wait a few minutes to build pressure, then open and close the screw a few times. If nothing comes out of the bleeder screw and the reservoir is full, close the cap. If the cap is closed, then make certain that the heater is on and let it idle, rev the engine a bit, basically let the system build pressure and it should help.

I’d been doin this with no luck

[Dawskip]

Is it possible it could be a dime/cluster issue?

I replaced my brown sensor on the thermostat and tightened the nut on the back of the cluster already.

[S.J.1981]

I’d been doin this with no luck

Okay, when you squeeze the top hose, the very top hose from the thermostat housing, do you see coolant moving in the reservoir? or it nothing happening?

If nothing happens, it means there is a lot of air, if some coolant moves, you have some air, if you see the coolant level move decently, it is bled and the problem is somewhere else.

[Dawskip]

Okay, when you squeeze the top hose, the very top hose from the thermostat housing, do you see coolant moving in the reservoir? or it nothing happening?

If nothing happens, it means there is a lot of air, if some coolant moves, you have some air, if you see the coolant level move decently, it is bled and the problem is somewhere else.

It flows into the tank — i know i have it bleeded lol everyone here is trying to tell me I don’t know how to bleed it



inwas at it again yesterday and noticed a few drips of coolant coming out of my exhaust, going to write it off as a cracked head probably and prep for a 20v or a turbo m20 swap