My PO replaced the fuel level sender, but the gauge is still totally dead. The rest of the cluster works great. What do I try next?
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new sender - fuel gauge still dead
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Verify the wiring (and sensor) by checking resistance from connector C2 pin 4 to ground. C2 is the white connector that mates to the left hand side of the cluster. If that is okay, remove the cluster and reflow the solder pad where the fuel gauge mounts to the PCB. If that doesn't help replace the fuel gauge.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostVerify the wiring (and sensor) by checking resistance from connector C2 pin 4 to ground. C2 is the white connector that mates to the left hand side of the cluster. If that is okay, remove the cluster and reflow the solder pad where the fuel gauge mounts to the PCB. If that doesn't help replace the fuel gauge.
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That rather depends on whether this is a early car with a single sensor or a late car with dual sensors and how much fuel is in the tank. With a full tank the level sensor resistance goes to zero. Early single sensor systems will be about 55 ohms when the tank is empty and a late model will be about 75 ohms on an empty tank. Note that the empty tank numbers are from memory and could be less than accurate.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Or pull the rear seat, disconnect the harness from the fuel tank sender. Then you can short the 2 out of the 3 wires turn the "empty" tank light in the cluster, and see if your gauge moves at all by shorting another 2. One is ground, one is the float, and 3rd is the on/off switch in the sender for the light.Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostVerify the wiring (and sensor) by checking resistance from connector C2 pin 4 to ground. C2 is the white connector that mates to the left hand side of the cluster. If that is okay, remove the cluster and reflow the solder pad where the fuel gauge mounts to the PCB. If that doesn't help replace the fuel gauge.
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Reflowing the solder isn't difficult. Maybe not a job for a first timer, but easy for someone with even just a little experience. If I was going to have it done, an A/V or radio repair shop is more likely to have the expertise than a computer repair shop.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by funcrew View PostHow hard is it to re-flow solder pads for someone with zero experience?
I had this happen to mine, i opened up the cluster, removed the fuel gauge and replaced it with one from another cluster, also cleaned the contacts in the cluster.-Dan
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