Offset LCAB orientation & Ti/E30 subframe...

[MikeDE]

Luckily i've been able to own/drive my E30 without spending too much time under it, this is the reason for the following questions. When the offset LCAB are installed(in 5-lug swap), does the hole sit further inboard or outboard?? And i'm sure it's been covered, but is the Ti subframe the same, as in interchangeable, with the E30?? Thanks, i'm getting ready for my M50 swap, and in Germany, if you want more power you need bigger brakes. No brakes, no TUV. I have a parts E36 325i(M50 donor w/ new brakes F+R) that I will soon begin to part for 5-lug and said swap. And will the 325i rear brakes fit the Ti rear?? I'm heading to the scrapyard Monday morning, wanna know if I should grab the brakes or leave them. Thanks.

EDIT-came across pic of bushings installed on a 5-lug swap but the 'e36 325i rear brakes on Ti rear' doesn't matter as they are only 8mm disc diameter difference(272 v. 280, thanks Jordan).

[MikeDE]

Came across this as well....

I'll revive this thread since it's on the subject I'm wondering about...

I'm picking-up 318ti rear suspension in the near future. Is it worth getting the rear subframe, if I can do all of the prep work for toe/camber adjustment, or is the subframe different?

In short, how are e30/Z3/318ti rear subframes different? I recall reading about some extra or missing brackets.

Answer...

subframes are identical aside from exhaust hanger, but that's not important

Thank you fellow R3Ver's.....

[MikeDE]

Jumped the gun I did...then 2 posts down to my disamy, I saw this....

According to Eric Lucas(who did the swap ages ago), the ti subframe is about 1cm wider then the e30 subframe and doesn't bolt up.

say it ain't so....

then I was confused by this statement...

^subframe itself bows in/out. I had really hard time installing e30 subframe in, because it was short after an accident. Stamped out assembly itself is the same.

And I only started researching 5-lug swap last night......

[Aptyp]

I like this thread, MikeDE. You're doing very well and hope this thread will have a sweet build in it one day.

To answer your other question: e36 coupe/sedan rear rotors are different from 318ti. Center bore is different and parking-brake drum is much wider on 318ti.

[MikeDE]

I like this thread, MikeDE. You're doing very well and hope this thread will have a sweet build in it one day.

To answer your other question: e36 coupe/sedan rear rotors are different from 318ti. Center bore is different and parking-brake drum is much wider on 318ti.

Why, thank you...I priced and secured rear trailing arms & brakes(complete of course) off of an E36 Compact today at the junkyard. I would have liked the diff for my swap, but get this, it was a turbodiesel(after I noticed the fmic). I googled it b/c there was no tag, 2.79. Too short for a 250 I think. Oh well, I get the rear-end bits for 120euro and a decent set of (euro) chromies w/ all trims for 50euro, though they need a good polish. And yes, there will be a build thread(s) for the 5-lug and m50 swap in their respective forums. Money is tight, so I must wait for the project-funding "parts for sale" to become liquid. Then comes the part-hording for the swaps. I will use my parts e36 325i front brakes/spindles/steering rack though I NEED 96+ M3 strut housings(or Billies)/upper spring perches/bearings and LCA's. "M" anything costs 2-3x more here in Germany. If anyone has anything, PM me.

[HellzMindPlaya]

While I understand you are on a budget I really must recommend against the using of the e36 325i front brakes. If you use them you may (will) end up with your front wheel not centered in the wheel well. The offset in the M3 brakes is also part of the offset that makes it so you need to run the 96+ lower control arms.

For the best setup the front will consist of:

96+ lower control arms
96+ M3 front brake knuckles
e30 M3 offset control arm bushings

I am sure I am missing some other stuff. If you search for posts by Aptypor myself (HellzMindPlaya) you should be able to find a good setup. Hell there are lots of people who have good setups... It can just get a little confusing as to where to read about it from. Aptyp has a great page that he always refers to, look it up and take a gander, it tells what you can and can't use. The page might even give a reason as to why you shouldn't use certain parts.

Good luck man

[atmosferas]

What I can tell from my experience using a donor euro 323ti is that this ^ is correct. My front wheels are NOT centered.. I am running 225/50 16 tires with some rubbing on full lock, and I used everything from the 323ti, brakes, spindles, hubs, struts, springs, etc.. EXCEPT I did use the 96+ M3 lower control arms and E30M3 offset CAB´s,but caster won´t be correct with just these two parts. It would now be very expensive to change spindles, rotors, pads, hubs, struts, etc.. to M3 parts... so I still haven´t decided on how to fix the centering issue... but enjoying my swap every day !!

By the way, on the back I used also everything from the 323ti, except for eibach E30 springs and E30 tokico shocks, and everything fits perfectly on the E30. I just need to have some camber adjustment on the back now, but that is due to the lowering, not the swap.

[MikeDE]

I hear both of ya, BUT I want to run 15/16" wheels, 17's are too big for me and they're expensive. I will slot the lollipops and see what happens.

[atmosferas]

I see...so I suppose M3 brakes are too big for 15 or 16 wheels ?
I was also thinking of slotting the lollipops. Tell me how it goes !
If you want I can post a pic of how my wheel looks right now with E36 parts, 96+ E36M3 control arms and E30M3 CABs

[MikeDE]

Please do....I think everyone would be interested...(edit)and not 2 minutes ago, I inquired about the spindles/brakes fron the 98 M3 off of which I will be getting the strut housings and LCA's. I am going to my parts car this weekend(110km away) to start pulling the motor. Would like to keep it mobile as long as possible so if the wheel position is $hit, then i'll go M3.

[StereoInstaller1]

I will slot the lollipops and see what happens.

How would you go about doing that? They are on dowels in the frame. If you get a good plan, post it up, would ya?

[MikeDE]

I would(have a machine shop) slot the bolt holes AND larger holes as well. I have not spent more than a few seconds looking at the lollipops to see how much room there is between them and the frame, but I will go look right now. And to avoid slippage, possibly a spacer or some spot welds between the dowel and lollipop dowel wall, it's hard to explain but try to picture where it would slip(to). I am in Germany so all mods(that aren't TUV approved) must be invisible. I would go with THR for even more wiggle room , but they are way too visible. There are big fines for unapproved parts, as well as my own liability in an accident.

[atmosferas]

This is my 5 lug setup with euro 323ti E36 suspension, brakes, steering, engine, ABS, ASC, A/C, except for 96+E36M3 Lower Control Arms and E30M3 CAB´s. On the rear I kept my E30 Eibach springs and E30 Tokico shocks.

[MikeDE]

Yeah, this ^ doesn't look too healthy. I looked at the lollipops and I think that if I get the holes machined for the extra adjustment, and take a hair off the center weld, just to clean it up, I can get maybe 6-8mm. What does everyone think?? Doable. I will get a set from the junkyard to mess with this weekend.

[edit].. took a lollipop off of my M50 donor, since they seem to be interchangeable between e30 and e36, and I will look at it later to see what I can do. Though it probably won't have enough adj. for the non-M brakes....