On here everyone says that you have to have 96+ M3 CA but on one of my searches but can't find it anymore, it says that you can use the non M CA but you have to use an offset bushing. Is this correct??
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E36 non M3 CA 5 lug??
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yep it takes both to get the wheel out of the back of the fender, i have done 2 swaps now and helped many online, take a look at the camber once you get it on its feet and see if it needs shims
i check it with a level and you want something like this
but i found with my set up for autocrossing i needed more and set it up with more
i hold the level straight and measure the gap
add spacers here
i found m30 head bolt washers to be perfect but ymmv
Originally posted by e30_325es View PostYou have to use both 96+ offset control arms, along with the offset ca bushings.
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After my non-m swap I had only -2deg. camber with vorschlag plates all the way in. I added TMS spacers (yes I paid $15 for 4 bolts an 12 washers, but they are the same thickness), using both spacers and gain 1.5 deg neg camber. Putting it to -3.5 on both sides with plates all the way in.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
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yep, with the m3 knuckles on my car i didn't need to screw with it to get it straight up to a hair of negative, i used 325 knuckles on the shop car and need to shim just to get straight up from positive, not positive that the m3 units have extra camber built in but i think they do. i was swapping back and forth running the shims only for autocrosses but decided screw tire life, ill destroy them grinding them around cones anyway and it handles better on the street to boot
Originally posted by MR 325 View PostSo you created more neg. camber, correct?
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Originally posted by e30_325es View PostAfter my non-m swap I had only -2deg. camber with vorschlag plates all the way in. I added TMS spacers (yes I paid $15 for 4 bolts an 12 washers, but they are the same thickness), using both spacers and gain 1.5 deg neg camber. Putting it to -3.5 on both sides with plates all the way in.Originally posted by NicademusMy car beats off to that car. :bow:
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to get the wheel centered in the well as such
you need the offset bushings combined with the offset arms, the non M part i am talking about is the knuckle, the hub/brake assembly, the M part seems to have more camber built into it then the 325 part
when i did the 5 lug on the shop rat i used the offset parts but used 325 brakes/hub assy's in the front and 318ti rear, i had to shim the lower strut attaching point just to get the camber straight up where my all M parts swap yielded a slight amount of negative as installed
Originally posted by Kingb View PostSo you are saying that you used a non M set up but everyone else here says you do?? This German e30 OG says that you can do it with out m stuff. he says that you only need the pffset bushings. I don't know what to believe now.
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what about the non m strut housing?Originally posted by FerdinandI carry a cheap pressure gauge in my glovebox with which to manually check my tire pressures, but I keep forgetting that in the USA glovebox space is sacred as it is reserved exclusively for the purpose of storing handguns.
DIVING BOARD DIVISION DIVISION IDIOT
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Guys i also need some help with my 5 lug conversion.
I have 1997 M3 lower control arms, some random (Noltec maybe) offset castor bushes, and 325i hubs/knuckles (non M), wheels are 17x8 BBS RC with 215/40/17 tyres. It still sits too far back in the wheel well compared to others i have seen on here.... Looking at the pic of the offset bushes, they don't seem to have alot of 'offset' compared to some. Can anyone recomend what bushes have the most offset without going to THR lollipops? What brand bushes are others using? I think even the factory E30 M3 ones look more offset than mine.
Do the M3 knuckles have any more caster built into them compared to non M (I see above they may have more camber, but i can fix that easy with shims).
Pics attached.
Last edited by Glen75; 01-24-2009, 08:59 PM.
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heres e30 m3 stock bushings on my old 90 325is
get factory lemforder brand units, the aftermarket ones i have seen don't last for shit with a set of hamburg technic ones lasting a month on a friends car, the m3 knuckles don't seem to do anything for caster but camber is better with them, when using shims make sure you have enough threads on the bolt or things could end badly
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Originally posted by winfred View Posti am running bilstein sport struts for a 92 325, they are just like the m3 units with the sway bar mounting points but they are 50-60 a piece cheaper then ordering the m3 part numbers, i haven't seen any place for a difference in geometry on the strut assembly's///Alpinweiß II 24v 91' 318is, Alpinweiß III 99' 323i, 04' Yamaha R6 SE for sale, 00' VW GTi, 83' El Camino BURNED, 01' P71sold, 92' Miatasold
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