Turner "J Spec" and my E30.

[Mr. F]

the stuff on the car is how it came when I bought it. I think its pretty obvious that I will need new brakes when I get the 5 lug too, but thanks for the reminder.

Stock E30 + Turner J Spec + ______ = 5 lug. Theres the question.

[Teaguer]

Stock E30 + Turner J Spec + ______ = 5 lug. Theres the question.

I'll be nice .

"Complete E30 M3 supension/brakes= 5lug" is the only legitimate answer.


Anything else is a "compromised set-up= 5-lug".

[Farbin Kaiber]

^ yep.

[Mr. F]

thank you.

[GaryE30]

Agreed. I went this route with my e30 and I would never go with any other set-up. It is just the best answer!

[atomic]

Here is everything you need to do a 5 lug swap the correct way. You will not save any money looking for a better deal. If you want to do it right pony up for this guys parts or stay 4 lug...

simple as that!

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=127871

Good luck!

:up:

[asubimmer]

the reason being is that the e30 components center the wheel properly, whereas the e36 stuff leaves it offset in the wheel arches.

wrong...

if you are using the e36 m3 fronts w/ 96+ CA's the wheel will be centered just like the e30 m3 parts.

And the e30 m3 and e36 318ti trailing arms are the EXACT same other than the size of the wheel bearing. The 318ti uses a smaller bearing than the e30.

You can use your e30 susp in the e36 m3 setup depending on what you do...

There is NOTHING wrong w/ the e36 m3 5 lug conversion and I would reccomend it over the e30 m3 for many reasons.
*The offset that it gives you
*The larger brakes
*Availability of parts
the list goes on

[asubimmer]

Here is everything you need to do a 5 lug swap the correct way. You will not save any money looking for a better deal. If you want to do it right pony up for this guys parts or stay 4 lug...

simple as that!

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=127871

Good luck!

:up:

another plus for the e36 m3 stuff is its a lot cheaper...

[atomic]

another plus for the e36 m3 stuff is its a lot cheaper...

And a BIG minus with e36 bits is you have to run et40ish wheels versus the et20-25 wheels you can run with e30 M3 parts. Also a big minus with big HP guys running e36 ti rear parts are the smaller halfshafts as well...

So with the bigger cost in e30 //M parts can cause you to spend tons on cool wheels too=BALLER!

To each their own though.

[asubimmer]

And a BIG minus with e36 bits is you have to run et40ish wheels versus the et20-25 wheels you can run with e30 M3 parts. Also a big minus with big HP guys running e36 ti rear parts are the smaller halfshafts as well...

So with the bigger cost in e30 //M parts can cause you to spend tons on cool wheels too=BALLER!

To each their own though.

lol you don't use the ti halfshafts, they won't even bolt up to the diff. You reuse the e30 ones. JUST like the e30 m3 stuff...

[atomic]

^^ you pwned me. I read that wrong in someones elses thread... It is the Mz3 5 lugz rears that are larger then

[PiercedE30]

Good thing about e30m3 stuff is you can reuse your current suspension.

[asubimmer]

Good thing about e30m3 stuff is you can reuse your current suspension.

lol did you miss my above post? I am using my e30 suspension w/ the e36 parts. There is too much miss-information in this thread.

[PiercedE30]

But are you using the E30 shocks?

[Charlie]

I know it might seem like Im kidding, but this car is being build for the drive to work. I get to drive over a mountain pass every day, and Im kind of aggressive sometimes(all the time). On the car, I already have drilled/slotted rotors, good pads, steel lines and a brand new master. The pedal falls off about 4 miles into a 12 mile run pending what Im listening to....

I'm calling dibs on all the good parts off this car.

BTW, it's "j-stock", not "j-spec". This isn't a f'n Honda.

-Charlie