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Is my rear subframe bushing missing/broken?

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    #16
    MarkH, thanks for the write up!

    Trying to figure out step 7, what size bolt(s) or is it a nut(s) hold the rear diff. to chassis and is this required if you are dropping the whole thing (rear subframe with the diff as one unit) or if you are removing the diff and then rear subframe ?
    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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      #17
      Originally posted by MarkH View Post
      6. Disconnect the parking brake cables and remove them from the trailing arms. If you are only going to lower the subframe you can get away with skipping this step, but be careful not to put any weight on these cables or you may damage the tubes where then route inside the car.
      I can't emphasize enough how unnecessary this pain in the ass step is. I changed my diff, subframe bushings and trailing arm bushings altogether without disconnecting the parking brake. Just put a wheel/tire/block under there and put the trailing arms on top. Unless you have a sudden urge to run around the block waiving your trailing arms in the air, just work with them by the car.

      The biggest pain for me in this job was burning out the old subframe bushings. The trailing arm ones are easy. Just heat the arms, and use a long adjustable plier to squeeze them out about half way, then pull them out of the other side. I didn't have a tool for the subframe bushings and the centers were torn clean through. Heating them didn't help a whole lot (well I did burn the shit out of my palm when I got frustrated at my fiance not holding the subframe by reading my mind and seeing the way I envisioned in my head, and grabbed freshly heated metal to show her how to hold it... that was a very grounding experience). I got them started with a screwdriver between the lower lip of the bushing and the subframe. Then once there was enough space to jam the adjustable plier in there, I twisted and pulled as hard as I could and little by little, they came out. Having done one bushing and knowing that I still had to do the same thing again on the other side was indescribably depressing.

      Oh yeah... if you're putting in urethane bushings, do NOT put the metal sleeve in until the bushing is in... don't ask how I know.

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        #18
        RE:SF bushings

        Man am I glad I read this thread! I went back and looked at how I had installed my racing urethane bushings and discovered I had put the big washer on the bottom instead of the top! This prevented the bushing halves from completely compressing in the metal sleeve. I pulled the subframe back down and put the washer where it belonged, on the top. (it must go here, at least with the IE urethane bushings). When I tightened the 22 mm nut the urethane pulled in tight. Thanks to those raising the question about the location and value of that big washer.

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