Trouble With Tie Rod While Doing Struts

[ThomasE30]

So I just got the driver’s strut in and I’ve ran into a problem now on both sides where after using the separator tool for the tie rod, it seems as if the threads/ stud from the tie rod end is bent or the threads are messed up at the top. I can’t seem to get the nut on and thread at all for both sides and wanted to know if I did something wrong when using the tool, or if this could’ve been from the PO.

Also would I be able to put on my e36 tie rod ends to get it to the shop to put on my new e36 rack? I don’t want to just because I don’t know if they would fit and i don’t want to mess the end up like I think I did on the e30 tie rod. The only solution I see is to some how hammer the nut on the tie rod to get it to the shop or just buy new tie rods for the e30 and then never use them again. I get free towing with insurance so I planned to just tow it there but I wouldn’t be able to steer it in onto the lift.

[roguetoaster]

You cannot hammer a nut on to a threaded component and expect it to stay. You can probably use E36 tie rods unless you have odd wheels.

If the nut came off without issue you probably galled the threads during your work. Next time use a hammer on the side of the knuckle and slight prying preasure to release a ball joint. Avoid separators unless you plan to replace the balljoint or at least the boot, which is typically serviceable. If you ever have to hammer on, or presse directly on a threaded part put the nut back on first and press on or hit that, not the threads.

When installing a new ball joint, place the rod in the bore and use a jack, which presses it in to place, under the ball joint to prevent it from rotating when you put on the nut.

FYI, cars with no tie rods can be towed and pushed around if you have two competent people to manage wheel direction.

Spend some time watching the work at the shop, and ask them questions.

[ThomasE30]

You cannot hammer a nut on to a threaded component and expect it to stay. You can probably use E36 tie rods unless you have odd wheels.

If the nut came off without issue you probably galled the threads during your work. Next time use a hammer on the side of the knuckle and slight prying preasure to release a ball joint. Avoid separators unless you plan to replace the balljoint or at least the boot, which is typically serviceable. If you ever have to hammer on, or presse directly on a threaded part put the nut back on first and press on or hit that, not the threads.

When installing a new ball joint, place the rod in the bore and use a jack, which presses it in to place, under the ball joint to prevent it from rotating when you put on the nut.

FYI, cars with no tie rods can be towed and pushed around if you have two competent people to manage wheel direction.

Spend some time watching the work at the shop, and ask them questions.

Hmm okay. All of that’s was very useful. I figured there’s be some way to steer it into there without the tie rods. I’ll probably just do that if the e36 ends don’t work out. Thank you for all the help!