Replacing the entire suspension. Need some clarification

[FetusGoulash]

Ok so i am new to e30s and my 85 318i is in serious need of an overhaul so i will be replacing as much as possible in the suspension and brakes first. I just need someone with the experience in doing this to check over my list of to-do's and tell me if i need/should consider anything else.
Right now this will only be the suspension/subframes that i am listing. Brakes will be another post, but will consist of 325i/is parts

Here is what i plan to to:
-325i front strut housings (larger diameter, better shock choices) shortened and rewelded.
-G60 struts(koni), coil over sleeves, springs. undecided spring rate
-upper stut bearings. Should i consider M3 bearings? I want as much neg. camber as possible. camber plates will be installed at a later date.
-tie rod ends
-new ball joints for the control arms. I assume these can be pressed in/out
-poly CAB's. non-offset for ease of alignment
-325 sway bars. What should i replace here? just end links?
-new engine mounts. poly if i can find them
-new rear subframe bushings. should i bother going with poly or keep it rubber?
-rear koni struts, coilovers, un determined spring rate.
-Poly TAB's
-rear aluminum shock mount kit (Flying Brick, or AKG, etc)

I think that is it, what am i missing here? Of course there are the little bits like hardware, dust boots, etc. but do i have all the big ticket items covered?

Best prices for the poly stuff?

Advice and criticism is good.
Thanks

[Jean]

Replace complete control arms.
Replace complete tie rods
For sway bars you should get new bushings and end links, both are wear items.

Do brake lines at the same time you do rear subframe bushings, it just makes sense to them NOW when you have your subframe out.

[FetusGoulash]

Replace complete control arms.
Replace complete tie rods
For sway bars you should get new bushings and end links, both are wear items.

Do brake lines at the same time you do rear subframe bushings, it just makes sense to them NOW when you have your subframe out.

Complete control arms are expensive, why should i do the entire unit? mine are in good shape

And brakes are all going to be done at the same time i just didnt put it in this thread. so that means wheel bearings, rear disc swap, etc all at the same time.

[Holland]

Lol, you and I are just about on the same page, brake conversions and suspension.

[PutterMcGavin]

Complete control arms are expensive, why should i do the entire unit? mine are in good shape

And brakes are all going to be done at the same time i just didnt put it in this thread. so that means wheel bearings, rear disc swap, etc all at the same time.

Arms are not that bad at all for price. I thought the same thing...

You can get Lemforder arms from AutohausAZ, Bimmerworld, TMS and RMEuropean for less thant $100/arm with free shipping at a few places. Ball joints (decent ones; Moog, Lem, etc.) are going to run you at LEAST $25-$35/joint PLUS the amount to get them pressed in ($20-60?). It might save couple buck but the arms can get bent and wear out.

[FetusGoulash]

I donno but $200 for a pair of new control arms is a bit steep when I add it to the total I already have.
I will check them to see if they are still true. They aren't rusty, so how does a peice of steel such as that "wear out"?

[FetusGoulash]

I donno but $200 for a pair of new control arms is a bit steep when I add it to the total I already have.
I will check them to see if they are still true. They aren't rusty, so how does a peice of steel such as that "wear out"?

[txtorquemade]

Contorl arms are a wear item. After time, they become a bit warped. Also you, or a PO might have cracked them on something and the result is a slight bend. ANY alteration to exact dimensions will effect the geometry and the result is all those new parts your throwing in .... well, the control arms are the pivotal part relating to how your car handles.

For the money, I'd replace them. In fact, I wouldnt do any significant front suspension work without replacing them.

Theres a reason the Motorsports ///M control arms are 2k a pair. Think about it. Its all about preserving the steering/ suspension geometry.

[XvillainousX]

since you're modifying your suspension to coil overs, dont forget to weld on e30 m3 sway bar tabs and use e28 sway bar links.

[whiltebeitel]

I donno but $200 for a pair of new control arms is a bit steep when I add it to the total I already have.
I will check them to see if they are still true. They aren't rusty, so how does a peice of steel such as that "wear out"?

The ball joints wear out, and you are better off buying the whole control arm instead of trying to get both ball joints and having them pressed in. It's not recommended to replace the balljoints in the aluminum M3 control arms because it can lead to a control arm failure.I'd replace them if the boots are torn or if the ball joints have any noticeable slop.