rear trailing arm adjustment? alignment specs?

[Jason89i]

completed the 5 lug and i am having some trouble getting it to "feel" right. after some investigation, i believe that my rear subframe has been tweeked.....found some repaint on rear left quarter. i replaced the inbound bushings with press-in factory eccentrics, but i know i will need to replace those.

1. what are the best options for adjustments on the rear? eccentric bolts with plates (like ireland sells) or eccentric bushings (like kmac?) i really dont feel like dropping the subframe again, but i am worried about the kmac type bushings rotating and going out of spec.

2. what are good alignment specs for the rear wheels? i am looking for better high speed stability....car gets 3-4 driving events a year and is my daily driver.

here are my current alignment specs...
total front toe is at .29deg
front camber is at -1.5deg

rear camber is between -1.8 and -0.5 deg.
rear toe is between -0.14 and 0.00 deg.

it seems to me that the total rear toe should be about 0.50deg toe in. (is that neg or positive?)

thanks, jason

[trent]

Re: rear trailing arm adjustment? alignment specs?

rear camber is between -1.8 and -0.5 deg.
rear toe is between -0.14 and 0.00 deg.

it seems to me that the total rear toe should be about 0.50deg toe in. (is that neg or positive?)

You are right. Rear toe out is NEVER wanted. The best way to fix your problem is to use eccentric bolts and holders that are welded onto the subframe.

[BimmerToad]

If you're going with the adjustable eccentric bushings route in a stock subframe, I'd go with RTRS adjustable bushings over Kmac. They are a lot cheaper ($155 from http://www.suspension.com/bmw2.html) and they are supposed to be less prone to loosing alignment. I've had them in my car for only ~600 miles, so I can't vouch for that claim.

[Jason89i]

If you're going with the adjustable eccentric bushings route in a stock subframe, I'd go with RTRS adjustable bushings over Kmac. They are a lot cheaper ($155 from http://www.suspension.com/bmw2.html) and they are supposed to be less prone to loosing alignment. I've had them in my car for only ~600 miles, so I can't vouch for that claim.

do you have to remove the bushings to adjust them? thanks, jason

[scottyp]

sorry i can't understand they're website which bushing set was it?

[AlarmedBread]

I just got the eccentric bolts for the rear subframe, you really only need to do 2 of em to get toe adjustment, but they're cheap enough ($8 each total) and while it's out I decided to do all 4. The IE kits are a ripoff, anyone who has the skills to weld the kit in could just as easily cut up some square tubing and make the plates. I'm done with crappy eccentric bushings!

ECCENTRIC BOLT M12X1,5X98 -- 33321095102
HEX NUT WITH FLANGE M12X1,5-10 ZNS3 -- 33326760668
ECCENTRIC FLAT WASHER -- 33321092310

[StereoInstaller1]

I just got the eccentric bolts for the rear subframe, you really only need to do 2 of em to get toe adjustment, but they're cheap enough ($8 each total) and while it's out I decided to do all 4. The IE kits are a ripoff, anyone who has the skills to weld the kit in could just as easily cut up some square tubing and make the plates. I'm done with crappy eccentric bushings!

So hey man, I just ordered these parts. My muffler shop buddy is gonna weld mine up for me...now I need to find some square stock adn determine how to cut the slots.

The other decision is to use urethane bushings or stick with OE.

[SamE30e]

I just got the eccentric bolts for the rear subframe, you really only need to do 2 of em to get toe adjustment, but they're cheap enough ($8 each total) and while it's out I decided to do all 4. The IE kits are a ripoff, anyone who has the skills to weld the kit in could just as easily cut up some square tubing and make the plates. I'm done with crappy eccentric bushings!

http://e30m3performance.com/installs/installs-3/jl_sub/index.htm

Apparently you can get them from bmw.. Hmmm

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...19&hg=33&fg=30

#15 and #16

[AlarmedBread]

Yep, the PN's I ordered are in my post above, you will have to make or procure your own bracketry, it's very simple just time consuming. To do the slots I only used a drill and a high speed dremmel (makita, but same diff). It would be easier if you found some square tubing that was thick enough and the correct ID, but all I had laying around was the angle iron.

[rkettner]

i ordered 15 and 16 above and the bolt is way too short and its also an m10 vs m12. the original e30 bolt for the reat trailing arm bushing is 90mm not the 66mm bolt that #15 is.

anyobody else notice that.

[rkettner]

i think #11 is the correct bolt not #15

did anyone notice that he used the m12 washer part number and the m10 bolt part number in his write up on this website: http://e30m3performance.com/installs..._sub/index.htm

[e30serg]

Hey guys-remember you need to machine/grind the inside radius of the angle iron so that the washer nut can rotate around when doing the adjustments.