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    Replacing Brake hardlines

    Hey all, i've finally been picking away at trying to get my other E30 to work. I have big plans and wanted to swap to M50 instead of just carrying out the timing maintenance. However I've reached quite a problem. The E30 runs their hardlines on the underside of the car (i'm used to Subaru's so it's always been internal, no rust problems. One of the lines is completely rusted and bled all over the ground as I tried bleeding the new master cylinder I installed.

    Anyone have any advice and or know how much it would cost to replace these hardlines? I checked Pelican and couldn't find anything. I don't have a flare tool or pipe bender or i'd attempt to do it myself.

    :(
    Originally posted by FredK
    However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

    My year in Germany
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    #2
    I hear a great excuse to go buy fancy new tools!

    Think of the possibilities!

    You can go 24v and then relocate the ABS for a better intake setup!

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      #3
      The easiest solution is to get new OE hard lines. They come straight and have to be bent, but a bender is cheaper than the flaring tools + a bender.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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        #4
        Originally posted by jlevie View Post
        The easiest solution is to get new OE hard lines. They come straight and have to be bent, but a bender is cheaper than the flaring tools + a bender.
        I have read the same.

        Some part numbers for the rear:

        34326755567 Brake pipe M10/M10-380mm 15" Rear Rt. Inner $7.60/$5.70
        34326755328 Brake pipe M10/M10-283mm 11.14" Rear Lf. Inner $5.83/$4.37
        34326755591 Brake pipe at trailing arm M10/M10-751mm 29.5" $8.65/$6.49

        34321158467 Brake pipe bracket, 1@ $1.38/$1.03
        34301161567 Brake pipe bracket, 4@ $0.78/$0.58
        Last edited by phenryiv1; 04-12-2010, 11:20 AM.
        Patrick Henry

        1989 325iC build: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=316880


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          #5
          You can rent a flaring tool + bender from autozone or the likes, You will also make good use of a 7/8" line wrench or 11mm one (7/8" are more available and the same size)

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            #6
            thanks guys! this is good info, I'll order the brake lines from pelican as i have a couple other things i need to get as well
            Originally posted by FredK
            However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

            My year in Germany
            Feedback

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              #7
              when are we doing this?
              Greg

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                #8
                Originally posted by psyber_0ptix View Post
                thanks guys! this is good info, I'll order the brake lines from pelican as i have a couple other things i need to get as well
                Tischer BMW has them for cheaper.
                Patrick Henry

                1989 325iC build: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=316880


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                  #9
                  Originally posted by learningcurve86 View Post
                  when are we doing this?
                  I need to figure out which line in specific needs to be replaced (to get the correct length part).

                  other than that Tom@WickedInnovation has a bender i can borrow.
                  Originally posted by FredK
                  However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

                  My year in Germany
                  Feedback

                  Comment


                    #10
                    just realized that those part numbers listed are literally for the rear subframe hardlines.

                    the brake line that needs to be replaced travels from the front all the way to the rear. It's rotted right by the bend at the driver side control arm bushing and is tucked behind 2 other hard lines. boo. but i'll check it out but i think i need

                    BrakePipe M10/M10-3120MM 34326755686

                    I think it would be the most tricky to bend/install though just because how tight a space it is.


                    Does anyone know if this is the ONLY line that runs back from the front to rear brakes? I'm assuming the other two hardlines are for fuel delivery and return.
                    Last edited by psyber_0ptix; 04-15-2010, 07:17 AM.
                    Originally posted by FredK
                    However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

                    My year in Germany
                    Feedback

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by psyber_0ptix View Post
                      just realized that those part numbers listed are literally for the rear subframe hardlines.

                      the brake line that needs to be replaced travels from the front all the way to the rear. It's rotted right by the bend at the driver side control arm bushing and is tucked behind 2 other hard lines. boo. but i'll check it out but i think i need

                      BrakePipe M10/M10-3120MM 34326755686

                      I think it would be the most tricky to bend/install though just because how tight a space it is.


                      Does anyone know if this is the ONLY line that runs back from the front to rear brakes? I'm assuming the other two hardlines are for fuel delivery and return.
                      That is the only line to the rear brakes. There is a tee at the rear subframe that splits the line to each rear caliper.

                      The way to do this is to carefully remove the existing line and bend the new line to match off the car. That way you aren't working in confined spaces.
                      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                        #12
                        Once bent will it be easily maneuvered into position without interferance? I'll check I out though. Thanks for everyones input so far
                        Originally posted by FredK
                        However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

                        My year in Germany
                        Feedback

                        Comment


                          #13
                          cant you just grab one from a wreckers?
                          RIP 84 323i coupe 5spd w/ 14psi
                          89' 318i

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Gruelius View Post
                            cant you just grab one from a wreckers?
                            A used brake line?
                            That's unwise. It will likely fail much sooner than it would have on the original car.

                            It might be a quarter century old line. It will have to be bent a little to be installed, and that will likely trigger accelerated rust. (Corroded plating and old epoxy coatings are both more brittle than they were when new.)

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                              #15
                              Any update on this? My rear brake line is leaking in the same spot, and I'm debating about an OEM line replacement VS bending and flaring a new set of lines for the whole car. Any insight about the quality of the parts you used, trouble you encountered and/or how you went about the job is greatly appreciated.
                              Thanks
                              K

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