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Crossthreaded Bolt: Caliper Bracket -> Knuckle Assembly

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    Crossthreaded Bolt: Caliper Bracket -> Knuckle Assembly

    ...what do you do if you want to change the rotor? Top Bracket bolt comes out. Bottom spins in place. Ideas?
    Originally posted by FredK
    However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

    My year in Germany
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    #2
    I'd replace that strut or trailing arm. Brakes are too important.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      You need to replace the carrier. Worth about $5 used.

      Is that part #9 that is stripped? Are you sure it is not the bolt?

      Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

      massivebrakes.com

      http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





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        #4
        i'm honestly not too sure. I can't remove the caliper off the knuckle because the bolt just spins.
        Originally posted by FredK
        However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

        My year in Germany
        Feedback

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          #5
          Originally posted by psyber_0ptix View Post
          i'm honestly not too sure. I can't remove the caliper off the knuckle because the bolt just spins.
          There's three parts involved here, the caliper, the carrier, and the strut/arm (knuckle). The carrier bolts to the knuckle with 2 17mm head bolts, and the caliper then bolts to the carrier with 13mm head bolts. If it's the smaller bolts, be aware that there is a slider that fits into the carrier that sometimes needs to be held to remove the 13mm bolt, I believe it is 15mm head size on Girling calipers. You can see it spin when you turn the bolt, and an open end wrench will slide in between the caliper and the carrier to hold it. If it's the 17mm head bolt that is spinning, then you will need to change your strut.
          1973 Bavaria

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            #6
            it's the larger bolts that hold the carrier onto the knuckle. I failed to mention I have e36m3 fronts so the struts will stay. It just gets costly to replace the carrier, and knuckle assembly as the bearing will likely frag itself on removal. all I can say to this predicament is....damn.
            Originally posted by FredK
            However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

            My year in Germany
            Feedback

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by psyber_0ptix View Post
              it's the larger bolts that hold the carrier onto the knuckle. I failed to mention I have e36m3 fronts so the struts will stay. It just gets costly to replace the carrier, and knuckle assembly as the bearing will likely frag itself on removal. all I can say to this predicament is....damn.
              Ah yeah, that sucks. I don't know if it would be cost effective (or safe, for that matter) to use a Heli-Coil there.

              Good luck!
              1973 Bavaria

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                #8
                thanks everyone for your input. I'll start saving up and not mess with it till i need to change rotors. It's not going anywhere right now and i'm not really driving the car much till i can get a new motor.
                Originally posted by FredK
                However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

                My year in Germany
                Feedback

                Comment


                  #9
                  Other people have mentioned it, but the knuckle isn't threaded, the carrier is. So once you get it apart all you need is to source another caliper carrier and you're all set. I'd think pressure with a pry bar and an impact gun on the bolt would be your best bet to running that bolt out.

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                    #10
                    My suggestion is to use an impact, and while unthreading the bolt, use a pry bar or thick screwdriver between the carrier and strut ear. The threads will grab. All you need is to unscrew for a thread or two.

                    Lee
                    Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

                    massivebrakes.com

                    http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





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                      #11
                      thanks guys, no chance of being able to rethread for a larger bolt? I know it sounds retarted, but these caliper carriers aren't exactly cheap when trying to put together swap conversion parts together. I may end up having to find a new trans setup as opposed to using the getrag 240 for a probable s50
                      Originally posted by FredK
                      However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

                      My year in Germany
                      Feedback

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I cannot get my carrier off the knuckle...bolts won't even budge, thoughts?
                        sigpicMy Project!

                        Official North Texas Bimmers Club E30 Representative

                        www.BimmerAlliance.net

                        "If you have questions about events or need help in the DFW area don't be afraid to contact me."

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                          #13
                          Spray the bolts with PBlaster or Kroil. Let that penetrate for a a day or two and then use a 1/2" drive breaker bar. If that fails try a beefy impact wrench. If no joy there, break out the flame wrench and heat where the threads are.
                          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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