ebrake shoe

[T La]

hey all, i'm currently trying to replace my rear trail arm and whilst removing the caliper we forgot to release the ebrake :down: and this little guy popped out when the caliper finally released.


which is now causing the shoe to sit like this


the little bolt thing seems to be okay but the dust shield it was attached to seems to be ripped out


I guess what i'm asking is, will this shoe be okay when installed on a new trail arm or do i need new parts/ another shoe?

also, i don't know how to go about transferring it... anyone know of any good DIYs?

Thanks!

[jlevie]

If you are replacing the trailing arm, the spring & pin should be okay to use.

[X_WizarD_X]

You will need a new backing plate to hold the spring clip in.
PROTECTION PLATE LEFT 34211162061
PROTECTION PLATE RIGHT 34211162062
Problem is it can only be replaced BEFORE the hub is pressed in(although I have heard of people cutting the backing plate in 1/2 to install it).
As far as the spring goes it could be reused, but you should look into a new spring kit...Little over $30 from Pelican but may be able to find cheaper...Search for "E-Brake Spring Kit". Includes all new parts for e-brake springs..

Dan

[livetheride]

i have little "washers" that solve the extra large whole problem. let me find you the part number...

[T La]

You will need a new backing plate to hold the spring clip in.
PROTECTION PLATE LEFT 34211162061
PROTECTION PLATE RIGHT 34211162062
Problem is it can only be replaced BEFORE the hub is pressed in(although I have heard of people cutting the backing plate in 1/2 to install it).
As far as the spring goes it could be reused, but you should look into a new spring kit...Little over $30 from Pelican but may be able to find cheaper...Search for "E-Brake Spring Kit". Includes all new parts for e-brake springs..

Dan

wait, so to transfer the ebrake i have to pull out the hub? :/

[X_WizarD_X]

wait, so to transfer the ebrake i have to pull out the hub? :/

No....E-brakes and hardware can be changed without removing the hub..
But to fasten the shoe to the backing plate (the proper way) with the spring and clip you need a new backing plate if it is totally FUBAR..

Dan

[T La]

No....E-brakes and hardware can be changed without removing the hub..
But to fasten the shoe to the backing plate (the proper way) with the spring and clip you need a new backing plate if it is totally FUBAR..

Dan

isn't the backing plate part of the dust shield? or am i a moron...

[X_WizarD_X]

Backing plate is the dust shield...

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=34_0405&hg=34&fg=10

#13....

[T La]

good to hear, my new trail arm is coming with one on it. does anyone have a link to a DIY on shoe uninstall and reinstall?

[X_WizarD_X]

Ah...Didn't realize (or didn't sink in) that you were replacing the T/A and it would have a new dust shield...
I would still get new shoes and springs though while at it..
Here is a write on replacement:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-55-Parking-Brake-Shoe/101-Projects-55-Parking-Brake-Shoe.htm

Other good articles there also..

Dan

[T La]

Ah...Didn't realize (or didn't sink in) that you were replacing the T/A and it would have a new dust shield...
I would still get new shoes and springs though while at it..
Here is a write on replacement:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-55-Parking-Brake-Shoe/101-Projects-55-Parking-Brake-Shoe.htm

Other good articles there also..

Dan

ahh, thank you. has anyone here replaced the shoe? how difficult was the job overall?

[E30_fiend]

I take it you've never done drum brakes before so I will try to make this easy. You'll need two MAIN tools but have others because some tools work better for others. You'll need a pair fo needle nose pliers and a pair of dykes(angled snips).

That spring you had in your hand has a pin inside as you can see. That pin only goes through the backing plate/dust sheild one way as you can see. What you need to do is grab your needle nose and clamp around the plate that sits on the top of that spring and push toward the backing plate. Now looking over on the back of the plate, sometimes you'll get lucky and the pin will have pushed through enough to where you can turn it so it can slide through the backing plate. If that doesn't happen, you'll need to continue pushing with the pliers and take another pair of needle nose pliers and clamp the head of the pin on the brake shoe side and push as well. This makes it easier because now you can simply turn the pin with the pliers until it lines up with the slit in the plate. Once that is done on both sides, well one side for you lol, you'll notice that the shoes will be somewhat floppy. There are some springs that hold tension on the shoes when the brake is applied those are a very straight forward removal. Simply grab your angled cutters and pry the springs out of the holes in the shoes. Make sure you note how the spring was installed. Take note on how the brake cable clamp is installed against the shoes as well as the actuator(fancy name for the tension adjustnment"bolt") Its the fat thing with the toothed ring at about 5 o'clock when looking at it. When you reinstall all off the parts you'll need to adjust the actuator just tightly enough to where the shoes BARELY rub on the inside of the rotor when installed.

And thats it, you're done.

Shoot me a text if you have any questions along the way. 805seven nine eight 2109




Taylor

[T La]

I take it you've never done drum brakes before so I will try to make this easy. You'll need two MAIN tools but have others because some tools work better for others. You'll need a pair fo needle nose pliers and a pair of dykes(angled snips).

That spring you had in your hand has a pin inside as you can see. That pin only goes through the backing plate/dust sheild one way as you can see. What you need to do is grab your needle nose and clamp around the plate that sits on the top of that spring and push toward the backing plate. Now looking over on the back of the plate, sometimes you'll get lucky and the pin will have pushed through enough to where you can turn it so it can slide through the backing plate. If that doesn't happen, you'll need to continue pushing with the pliers and take another pair of needle nose pliers and clamp the head of the pin on the brake shoe side and push as well. This makes it easier because now you can simply turn the pin with the pliers until it lines up with the slit in the plate. Once that is done on both sides, well one side for you lol, you'll notice that the shoes will be somewhat floppy. There are some springs that hold tension on the shoes when the brake is applied those are a very straight forward removal. Simply grab your angled cutters and pry the springs out of the holes in the shoes. Make sure you note how the spring was installed. Take note on how the brake cable clamp is installed against the shoes as well as the actuator(fancy name for the tension adjustnment"bolt") Its the fat thing with the toothed ring at about 5 o'clock when looking at it. When you reinstall all off the parts you'll need to adjust the actuator just tightly enough to where the shoes BARELY rub on the inside of the rotor when installed.

And thats it, you're done.

Shoot me a text if you have any questions along the way. 805seven nine eight 2109




Taylor

you may very well be getting some texts hahahaha.

thanks a bunch everyone.