HELP!! with trailing arm install

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • TrentW
    R3VLimited
    • Aug 2008
    • 2815

    #1

    HELP!! with trailing arm install

    Bentley is not clear on this and I'm reinstalling the trailing arms back onto the subframe after doing all the bushings and assorted stuff that needs to be done while the subframe's out. I'm mounting the trailing arms back onto the subframe and need to know if there's a torque spec on the four bolts? Also, are these bolts supposed to be tightened after the rest of the suspension is installed to correctly orient them? There's no damn way a torque wrench will fit up there after they're installed though!?
  • Jean
    Moderator
    • Aug 2006
    • 18228

    #2
    I take it you didn't drop the subframe to replace all 6 bushings at once, it would then give you all the access you need to torque the trailing arm bolts and replace the rear upper brake lines ;)
    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

    Comment

    • TrentW
      R3VLimited
      • Aug 2008
      • 2815

      #3
      Actually yes, I've got the subframe and trailing arms laying on the ground as we speak. My questions are what are what is the torque spec and are they supposed to be tightened at ride height? But you can't get a torque wrench on those nuts once it's installed. How do I prevent the bushings from binding if tightened w/o weight of the car on them?

      Comment

      • Jean
        Moderator
        • Aug 2006
        • 18228

        #4
        Give me a few minutes, looking through e30 workshop manual...
        Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



        OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

        Comment

        • Jean
          Moderator
          • Aug 2006
          • 18228

          #5
          Ok page 774 section 33-7 says to tighten the trailing arms bolts with car in normal position.

          Torque specs = can't find them hmmm
          Last edited by Jean; 08-22-2010, 01:10 PM.
          Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



          OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

          Comment

          • Matt-B
            The Waffler
            • Jun 2009
            • 3856

            #6
            Make them tight. Drive for a day. re check. I was told this by my friend Roland who works at a BMW dealer, that sometimes even their books don't give all torque specs


            Please leave feedback below, thanks

            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=358170

            Comment

            • TrentW
              R3VLimited
              • Aug 2008
              • 2815

              #7
              Appreciate the info guys!

              Comment

              • RoadHazard
                Advanced Member
                • Sep 2007
                • 163

                #8
                Let me revive this old thread.

                I found a source that said the torque spec is 67 Nm with suspension loaded.

                Suspension being loaded means the car is on the ground, doesn't it? How am I going to get under there and torque the bolts down with suspension loaded? Let alone using a torque wrench.
                90 E30 S50B30
                http://www.fquick.com/roadhazard/

                Comment

                • KVF
                  Wrencher
                  • Apr 2010
                  • 297

                  #9
                  The best you could do would be to tighten snug, back it onto ramps and slide under with a torque wrench. You can probably get to the inside nuts, but the outers will be an issue... I did mine without the car under load and I haven't noticed any issues.

                  Comment

                  • TrentW
                    R3VLimited
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 2815

                    #10
                    Originally posted by KVF
                    The best you could do would be to tighten snug, back it onto ramps and slide under with a torque wrench. You can probably get to the inside nuts, but the outers will be an issue... I did mine without the car under load and I haven't noticed any issues.
                    You need to tighten them under load, otherwise they'll wear out quickly from binding. Plus, you'll need them somewhat loose before installing the whole subframe assembly anyway. Just get them snugged down enough so they can still move. I put the rear wheels up on ramps and held the bolt end with a wrench and tightened the nut end with a ratchet wrench. There's no way in hell you can get a torque wrench on them. A ratchet wrench will just baaaarrrely fit and then you can only tighten a couple clicks at a time. Just get them tight and you'll be fine.

                    Comment

                    • Car Addict
                      E30 Enthusiast
                      • Mar 2007
                      • 1100

                      #11
                      quick idea why not just jack up the the suspension on the corner you are working on, to ride height then torque away?
                      sigpic

                      Comment

                      • KVF
                        Wrencher
                        • Apr 2010
                        • 297

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Car Addict
                        quick idea why not just jack up the the suspension on the corner you are working on, to ride height then torque away?
                        It's not the arms or springs that's an issue. Once you pop the subframe back into place it's too tight to get a torque wrench on the arm bolts/nuts. Guess I'll be doing my next set the way Trent described.

                        Comment

                        Working...