WTF?! i just found somethingwierd on my subframe...

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  • 325issguy
    replied
    Yea i used to 5/8 lag screw for my subframe drop.

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  • T La
    replied
    FINALLY got it out today using hydraulics... that thing was seriously stuck in there...

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  • MattM
    replied
    i took an air chisel to the bushing until it dropped out... of course, replacing the bushing is required after this sort of work...

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  • DJB
    replied
    Screw in a 5/8" bolt from below, and stick in a foot long 1/2" bar (all-thread or rebar is easy to get) from above. Make certain that the small sledge doesn't break the windows when you swing.

    If you use a regular bolt instead of a lag screw, you might cut a few grooves into it so that it looks a little like a tap. You want to thread it into the soft bushing core, not break up the core.

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  • T La
    replied
    Originally posted by Gruelius
    incorrect

    get a suitable lag bolt (i used m16 as metric is easily available here) thread it in a few times to the hole in the subframe bush (im asuming you will replace the subframe bushes)

    Get a rod of somesort that will fit through the hole without damaging the splines on the chassis and belt the lag bolt and that should knock the subframe down.

    have some bricks close under the subframe arm so you dont knock it oo hard and send everything flying.

    The fuel pump wiring on a early model is cable tied to the drivers side toe tag on the subframe so make sure you undo those before you try to fully drop it down.

    mine's a late model. good idea! i'll try that

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  • Gruelius
    replied
    incorrect

    get a suitable lag bolt (i used m16 as metric is easily available here) thread it in a few times to the hole in the subframe bush (im asuming you will replace the subframe bushes)

    Get a rod of somesort that will fit through the hole without damaging the splines on the chassis and belt the lag bolt and that should knock the subframe down.

    have some bricks close under the subframe arm so you dont knock it oo hard and send everything flying.

    The fuel pump wiring on a early model is cable tied to the drivers side toe tag on the subframe so make sure you undo those before you try to fully drop it down.

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    I have never knocked the bolts up when removing a subframe? You just have to make sure it drops evenly on both sides..

    Maybe a dumb question, but is everything else unbolted?

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  • george graves
    replied
    Wiggle it. Just a little bit. Why don't you wiggle it. Just a little bit.

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  • T La
    replied
    okay sounds good i'll give that a try

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  • phenryiv1
    replied
    You may need to use a 2x4 or plywood on the underbody to pry against. This will allow you to torque on the prybar without placing too much stress on too small of an area of the undercarriage.

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  • T La
    replied
    but where should i pry? we couldn't find a good point by the bushings and if you pry from anywhere else the underbody will get bent... right?

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  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Prybar...carefully.

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  • T La
    replied
    okay guys, i just got the pins out, but now the subframe won't actually drop out; are there any tricks or techniques for physically dropping it out? it seems like it's getting stuck on the bushings...

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  • T La
    replied
    Originally posted by E30Idea
    Very true, but this is the first thread in awhile that any OP has not been flamed for asking a standard question that we forget can be a "life or death" feeling to a newly born DIY'er

    Keep at it.
    apparently i'm not the first one to have that feeling hahhaa. thanks again.

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  • E30Idea
    replied
    Originally posted by george graves
    We've all been there. Trust me.
    Very true, but this is the first thread in awhile that any OP has not been flamed for asking a standard question that we forget can be a "life or death" feeling to a newly born DIY'er

    Keep at it.

    Leave a comment:

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