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    New brakes going on, few questions

    Just finished buying everything for the brake job.

    After flipping through all the posts on here, I decided on OEM rotors (Brembo), Mintex red box pads, and IE SS lines. All came to the tune of under $250 to my door, so I feel like I got a pretty good deal. Also grabbed a set of OEM ebrake shoes for $18 shipped.

    I'm not one that likes doing things more than once. Especially things that require fluids, where if you don't get it right, you have to waste some of that fluid and do it again.

    So before I go installing the above parts, what other things should I do before bleeding and refilling the system? Should I bleed all of the old fluid out? If so, what's the easiest way? Go to the driver's front caliper and have someone pump and hold and just let it all out the bleeder?

    The brake pedal is soft. The car has been sitting for a while. How can I determine if the MC is still good? How can I check the calipers?

    Anything else I'm missing, let me know. Thanks!

    #2
    I doubt you'll need the ebrake shoes, they can be a bit of a pain to do so check before you dive in.

    There is no need to drain the fluid out or 'bench bleed' the MC as some people like to suggest. Just bleed each corner until clean fluid is coming out. If you have an old turkey baster you can suck some old fuild out of the resivior to save time. Keep your bleeder hose submerged in the waste fluid because it can suck air back in; just lift it up for a second to see if the fresh fluid is there yet. Bleed in this order: RR LR RF LF.
    Adam Fogg- '88 M3

    Common sense- It's the new 'gifted'

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      #3
      Also, do not use the full travel of the pedal while bleeding with an older MC.
      '91 318is
      sigpic

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Brew
        Also, do not use the full travel of the pedal while bleeding with an older MC.
        WTF? If your MC is that bad that a full pedal travel is going to ruin seals inside it's time for a new one.
        Adam Fogg- '88 M3

        Common sense- It's the new 'gifted'

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by AdamF 88iS
          Originally posted by Brew
          Also, do not use the full travel of the pedal while bleeding with an older MC.
          WTF? If your MC is that bad that a full pedal travel is going to ruin seals inside it's time for a new one.
          I see what you're saying, its just something I've been told numerous times by mechanics and teachers at school.
          '91 318is
          sigpic

          Comment


            #6
            I have never heard anyone say not to use all of the pedal, regardless the condition of the MC


            http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657387

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by nefarious7907
              I have never heard anyone say not to use all of the pedal, regardless the condition of the MC
              Every repair manual I have ever read has said this. Though as Adam says it shouldn't matter if the MC is in good nick.

              James

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by nefarious7907
                I have never heard anyone say not to use all of the pedal, regardless the condition of the MC
                Using the full pedal travel on my MC made me switch to the 25mm one. The failure was very obvious, and complete. The only downside was I had to beg a ride to work until the new MC came in.

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