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    Steering wheel shakes while braking at high speeds

    Before I start, yes I have searched...

    Im having a few problems and I think they are all related somehow...
    -Firstly, my mechanic said my left ball joint is toast.
    -My steering wheel/car shakes while braking at high speed, feels like both sides of the front.
    -When accelerating on a tight left turn, car makes a slight grinding noise.
    -Brakes clunk when I release it after going at a fast paste. In example, If I start from 60mpg and hit the brakes to 0 then release it clunks, but if im going 5mph then step on the brakes slowly and release, no clunk...
    -Hand brake goes too high but I adjusted the lever thing.
    -Brake lining light consistently turns on/flickers while driving, flickers especially on bumps..

    My main concern is the steering wheel shaking at high speeds. I am guessing it is either the ball joints or can also be tie rods. My third guess would be the brakes, but my mechanic said it was fine.. I am not an mechanic but I am learning.. Just started to learn hence my passion for cars. I am on a budget and plan on getting control arms, but I would get a better deal If I purchased along with tie rods.

    Should my "high speed braking steering wheel shaking" problem be cured by replacing both control arms with ball joints and CABs? Or should I get the tie rods too?...

    I am on a super tight budget therefore contemplating on this issue... I would have to pay for installation also.

    Does anybody have good detailed pictures of worn vs good ball joints and tie rods(the part that connects to the wheel) ?

    So sorry for the long post

    #2
    check brakes , rotors , wheels, tires.

    and yes i didnt read your post. Ive drank to much. good day.

    Comment


      #3
      check brakes , rotors , wheels, tires.

      and yes i didnt read your post. Ive drank to much. good day.

      Comment


        #4
        Replace both control arms and bushings. If there is play in the tie rods, replace them also. I'll bet on the struts being blown out and needing to be replaced and the upper strut mounts probably need replacement. Noise in a turn usually indicates a bad wheel bearing, so do them also.

        If the front calipers are ATE (the rears always are) replace the rubber guide bushings. If the rotors have a ridge along the outside edge, replace them also. The parking brake needs to be adjusted and that isn't done at the lever, but with:

        1) Lower the hand brake and loosen the cable adjusters.

        2) Working through a lug bolt hole turn the star adjuster until the wheel
        locks using a flat-bladded screwdriver. I just turn the adjuster until it
        doesn't want to turn any more. Then back off the adjuster 12 clicks. Repeat
        for the other wheel. Note that the star adjuster is at the 6 o'clock position
        on later cars, but at the 10 o'clock position on an E30.

        3) Raise and lower the hand brake several times to settle the cables. Then
        raise the lever two clicks and tighten the adjusters until the wheel can just
        be turned with moderate force.
        ~
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jlevie View Post
          Replace both control arms and bushings. If there is play in the tie rods, replace them also. I'll bet on the struts being blown out and needing to be replaced and the upper strut mounts probably need replacement. Noise in a turn usually indicates a bad wheel bearing, so do them also.

          If the front calipers are ATE (the rears always are) replace the rubber guide bushings. If the rotors have a ridge along the outside edge, replace them also. The parking brake needs to be adjusted and that isn't done at the lever, but with:

          1) Lower the hand brake and loosen the cable adjusters.

          2) Working through a lug bolt hole turn the star adjuster until the wheel
          locks using a flat-bladded screwdriver. I just turn the adjuster until it
          doesn't want to turn any more. Then back off the adjuster 12 clicks. Repeat
          for the other wheel. Note that the star adjuster is at the 6 o'clock position
          on later cars, but at the 10 o'clock position on an E30.

          3) Raise and lower the hand brake several times to settle the cables. Then
          raise the lever two clicks and tighten the adjusters until the wheel can just
          be turned with moderate force.
          ~

          Do you think the control arm is causing my vibration while braking? Struts are not blown. How do i check for tie rod play?

          Comment


            #6
            Could be an out of round rotor, especially since it's while braking..

            I have the same vibration during braking problem, It flared after I tried to lightly turn my rotors, I couldn't take enough off to truly resurface them, and therefore probably just made it worse. I'm getting ready to replace mine, I'll let you know if it fixes it.

            If anyone else has any further/different insight feel free to chime in..

            BTW: BMW rotors are NOT to be turned, and I did it anyways full well knowing this.
            Last edited by 87_black_325is; 01-07-2011, 09:24 PM.
            87 (OO=[][]=OO) 325iS

            Originally posted by mkcman17
            My car is powered by hopes and dreams

            Comment


              #7
              That was my problem, new rotors and pads and it's gone. I had a strong feeling that it was the culprit, but I am still learning and don't profess to know everything yet. My vibration was pretty severe too, basically if you can feel it in the steering wheel, it's the rotors.
              87 (OO=[][]=OO) 325iS

              Originally posted by mkcman17
              My car is powered by hopes and dreams

              Comment


                #8
                I have had a vibration that was from the CABs. I replaced them with delrin and it's been great ever since. It would only happen with hard braking at 65+
                1989 325i Alpineweiß II

                Comment


                  #9
                  check brake master cylinder make sure its good. raise the car and see if the front wheels turn freely without brakes applied. if there is resistance the brake master might be the issue.

                  I had replaced my axles rotors and brakes on my honda. and i had bad highspeed and braking vibration after. turned out my master cylinder went to shit and my brakes were constantly being applied. didnt notice this til after i replaced the old rotors. the old rotors were cracked and worn down.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have this same Problem, Its the control arm ball joint as per investigation, does anyone know if they will fail and pop out? I'm not driving car till monday to drop off at mechanic
                    91 318iS http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2396154

                    Comment

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