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What tool to use to modify rear subframe for camber/caster adjustment?

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    What tool to use to modify rear subframe for camber/caster adjustment?

    I purchased the AKG rear camber/caster adjustment kit for my Spec E30 I am building though I am having problems modifying the rear subframe. I took my airgrinder to the subframe to grind it down and the bit is wearing down much faster then it is grinding down the subframe. At this pace it will take me 10 hours and 100 bits to finish all 8 mount points.
    Is there a certain tool you guys recommend to modify the subframe or are my grinder bits just giant pieces of shit and aren't lasting?

    Thanks,
    Rich

    #2
    You shouldn't be grinding 'off' anything. Weld the tabs supplied with the kit on to the existing mount points, then slot the existing holes in to an oval shape to match the AKG parts you just welded on.

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      #3
      I used a 1/4" carbide burr with a 90 degree die grinder when I did mine.

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        #4
        Originally posted by CorvallisBMW View Post
        You shouldn't be grinding 'off' anything. Weld the tabs supplied with the kit on to the existing mount points, then slot the existing holes in to an oval shape to match the AKG parts you just welded on.
        I marked the shape of the AKG parts onto the subframe and was going to match the shape by grinding it out and then weld the reinforcement plates on. I didnt want to take a chance at accidentally grinding away at the AKG parts. I didnt see it possible to weld the parts on and then grind, without hitting the AKG parts.

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          #5
          Originally posted by 2002maniac View Post
          I used a 1/4" carbide burr with a 90 degree die grinder when I did mine.
          I am not familier with that tool but i just did a google search. The Carbide burr is the bit correct? I assume that I can pick them up locally here pretty easily at one of the tool stores. Did it do a pretty simple job at grinding away at the subframe?

          Thanks again.

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            #6
            You weld on the plates and then open up the original trailing arm mounts to match the slots with a carbide burr. It doesn't have to be perfect as the eccentric washers index the trailing arm bolts.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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              #7
              carbide burrs eat metal for breakfast. I have a few of them and everytime I chuck up that evil pine-cone bit it takes off too much material. Be careful.

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                #8
                Originally posted by redrocket328 View Post
                I am not familier with that tool but i just did a google search. The Carbide burr is the bit correct? I assume that I can pick them up locally here pretty easily at one of the tool stores. Did it do a pretty simple job at grinding away at the subframe?

                Thanks again.

                thats what i used, but i made the oval first, then welded on the tabs. you dont want to overdue the tabs.

                you should be able to find them at any welders supply store
                NEED SOME VINYL STICKERS???

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