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Brakes stopped working? need help asap!

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    #16
    Honestly, I got the same info about my brake booster when my MC went out, and it turned out to not be accurate. In my case, there was ZERO fluid that had gotten into the Brake Booster. I bought one, and it's just sitting in my garage collecting dust.

    It's cosmetically in a little better shape than my original one, so I'm going to swap it over in May when I'm doing a bunch of engine work (on my car, the intake manifold has to come off to have enough clearance to remove the booster).

    I'd be checking out your current booster before dropping $464 on a new one.
    Originally posted by LJ851
    kingston is the play by play announcer for this thread.
    ‘Tis by the grace of God that my cars run!

    Originally posted by unloadedak
    #teamross
    Siobhan's Build Thread - UPDATED!

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      #17
      The master cylinder was dead and replaced but my pedal was rock hard. We also found a rotten and rusted brake line so replaced. We took the MC back out and turns out a seals had fallen out of its proper location in the booster and was causing an air leak.. putting it back in place made my brakes back to normal and it brakes awesome now :D no need to change the booster I gess. Total cost of repair with labor: 238.66$ ( MC used: $92, labor 1st time: 2 hours and a half @40$/h: 100$, 2nd time 1 hour ten minutes including replacement of chain tensioner: $46.66)

      PS: tensioner = 95+tax

      900-238.66 = $661.34 savings HAHAHA

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        #18
        You didn't happen to pull the booster and turn it upside down did you? Would suck to really have fluid in the booster still...then you would just have to pull it all apart again.

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          #19
          no I didn't :( shyte.
          and my brake fluid went down a bit again.. I hope its ok because this car has been getting on my nerves, just a little bit

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            #20
            Aren't you like 16?

            You should probably focus on having a car that runs and drives well. Not these things:

            -I'm gonna buy a full z4 2.5 shifter kit new so no need to replace shifter bushings.

            -M50 swap maybe so if I do no need for motor, transmission and diff bushings (lsd swap, too), and camshaft seal

            -suspension job: ground control coilovers with bilstein sport shocks.
            Once your car runs and drives like a BAWS and you learn what control arms and tie rods are, THEN you might be able to take on an M50 swap. Believe me when I say these things, I did the same things when I was 16.

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              #21
              Im 18... The car runs fine but I broke the oil pan going 5kph which sucks donkey balls. Then my brakes stopped working, replaced the MC, then repaired the booster. And now my steering (between locks) is hard to turn then easier then it becomes hard again. So I'm putting in a z3 rack in two weeks and my z4 2.5 is being purshased next week. The car is in perfect shape and then something goes wrong and it sucks because two inspections says its in great shape.

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                #22
                Okay man, best of luck to you then.

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                  #23
                  Thanks man :P. But I know where your coming from, and I will wait for the m50 swap.. You're right about upgrading once I get my car up and running like it should! But I can justify the z3 rack because my current one is faulty :) and my shifter is sloppy joe so....:|

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