Rerouting rear brake hardline

[jclar]

So today when I was driving I lost brake pressure. I drove home and found that the hardline running from the front to rear T had sprung a nasty leak.

Obviously this needs to be replaced, but after some reading it looks like a complete PITA to do this without removing either the subframe or gas tank. I really do not have time to do either, this is my DD. I can afford to be without it a couple days but anything past that will be too much.

I stumbled upon somebody mentioning the possibility of rerouting all of the rear lines to an easier to access area. I'm just wondering where exactly I could relocate the rear T fitting and everything. Ideally I would be able to do this with pieces from the local NAPA and Advance Auto, the closest stealer is pretty far away, and as I mentioned I really don't want to wait too long.

Any help is appreciated.

[jlevie]

With the car up on jack stands I can have the subframe off the car in three hours, tops. A car from salt country might take a bit longer because of corroded fasteners, but still it isn't that hard to drop the subframe. And that would give an opportunity to replace the subframe & trailing arm bushings, which are almost certainly needed on an 86.

[jrobie79]

they sell pre-flared ni-copp (nickel copper alloy; wont rust) with a bubble flare at autozone. I do not thing they have one long enough to go to the front, but since they are preflare you can just run a union inline somewhere about halfway, go to realoem and see what the lengths of the tubes are and check if theres a corresponding size at the auto parts store. btw ni-copp can be bent by hand, no benders needed, so its great for custom routing

[jclar]

Thanks guys, I'm just gonna go the OEM route. The longest one at Advanced Auto was 78 inches, the one from BMW to go from the front to back is right around 123 inches or so.

[KVF]

Thanks guys, I'm just gonna go the OEM route. The longest one at Advanced Auto was 78 inches, the one from BMW to go from the front to back is right around 123 inches or so.

If you are going the "manly man" route and dropping the sub, you'll be able to use the OEM one piece line. If you are going to try rerouting the line, do not use the OEM pre-bent stuff. Truthfully, I'm with Jrob on the ni-cop regardless of how you plan to install. Its so easy to work with and doesn't rust, EVER. You can couple it as Jrob suggests or buy a roll and bend & flare it yourself. It's so easy to work with, I unrolled, bent, cut, & flared it while under my range rover this past weekend to replace a line.

[dkbmxer002]

i'm in the same exact boat right now.. i do NOT want to have to drop the subframe.. but i also don't like the idea of hacking up my brakes.. blah!

[jclar]

i'm in the same exact boat right now.. i do NOT want to have to drop the subframe.. but i also don't like the idea of hacking up my brakes.. blah!

I'm almost finished with doing all of the hardlines in the rear without moving the subframe or gas tank. It's really not as tough as I thought it would be, just a little frustrating and it certainly takes time.

The worst part is that everything has at least a little dirt on it, and whenever I touch anything I get dirt in my eyes.

[87bimmer325]

I'm almost finished with doing all of the hardlines in the rear without moving the subframe or gas tank. It's really not as tough as I thought it would be, just a little frustrating and it certainly takes time.

The worst part is that everything has at least a little dirt on it, and whenever I touch anything I get dirt in my eyes.

That is why they make safety glasses.

[jrobie79]

I had to use the pre-flared lines, I bought a roll of the Ni-Copp, but the flaring tool I used and/or my technique was shit and the whole process wastoo frustrating and i didnt want to spend all that time. But I have a female to female union connecting a 60" and 51" line and it works great routed exactly like the OEM hose, I guess you could use 2 60" lines to get a little more closer to OEM exact routing, but w/e works in this case....no leaks yet!!

[dkbmxer002]

I'm almost finished with doing all of the hardlines in the rear without moving the subframe or gas tank. It's really not as tough as I thought it would be, just a little frustrating and it certainly takes time.

The worst part is that everything has at least a little dirt on it, and whenever I touch anything I get dirt in my eyes.

really? so you did the lines up by the subframe without removing it? i will try to do this if possible...

[fuzzysux]

brake lines are very easy. get the bending tool, so you can make nice reliable bends. nothing worse than getting it all to match up and then kinking the last bend.. and starting over.
buy an extra piece as a spare and get to work. i've re-run brake lines in many of my cars. when you get good at it it is a HUGE cost savings. The stealers (foreign or domestic) get hundreds of $$$ for pre bent brake lines. its really not complicated at all, just get from point A to point B and try to keep it in a location that won't bind!
Don't over-complicate it, take a few hours, a 6 pack (to stay relaxed.. lol) and have at it!

[fuzzysux]

OH, costs help...

the bending tool is ~$15
brake line (with flares attached) varries by length from abt. $8 - $15

they take it back if you don't use it, so buy all of the options you might need from autozone or advanced or napa whichever you prefer.. also saves alot of frustration!!