Originally posted by Mr Two
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4 point lower cross brace
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Originally posted by chrisbmx68 View Postalready have his skid plate. IMHO the ultra racing bar is still the only reasonably priced one aside from the e36 unit. My issue has been forwarded to the engineering department at ultra racing and hopefully they will not release any more with this defect. 400 bucks isn't a reasonable price in my mind. Coming from the vw scene the cost of aftermarket bmw parts makes my blood pressure rise. Also the availability of used aftermarket parts like this is nonexistent.
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There is basically a slotted washer welded to the end of those tubes which a bolt goes through.
I'm not trying to knock the American made enthusiast products they are all really nice and I would and do support the sellers when I can afford to do so. I'm just a little cheap I guess. I got a Chinese ebay style sub frame brace for my rabbit for 25 bucks shipped which is of similar quality to this ultra racing unit.
Before that (when my race header did not interfere) I paid 150 for an even nicer American made unit from a reputable seller. The reason the e30 parts cost more I suspect is because these are after all BMW's and the volume/demand is lower. There are a lot more terrible vw's than e30's on the road.
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Ok back on track! Brace is installed and works well, noticeably stiffens up the front end especially obvious when entering driveways with steep transitions. I used to be able to feel the whole front end flex as I slowly turned in now that is greatly reduced. Also feels more planted on hard cornering and over abrupt bumps.
Fitment wise we already knew I had to shorten that one front tube mount. I cut it down and welded the washer back on. If I hadn't had a skid plate it would have bolted right up no problem (minus the welding which I knew had to be done) I just had to fineness the front of the brace and skid plate its snug in between the 2. Here are some pics of the ordeal.
Marked for cutting
cut to the right length
ready to weld
tigged back on
painted with some white epoxy enamel and installed
ground clearance reduction or lack there of. Shouldn't have any issues even if I ever get coilovers.
side shot
I tried to take a picture of how tight it is between the back of the skid plate and the front mounts but the car was too close to the ground to fit the camera in there well.
Overall if they fix the MFG defect the product will be a nice affordable piece that works as it should.
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I'd like to see hard data on this brace... can anyone shed some light on the actual performance benefits? People talk about strut braces too but I hardly see the benefit of something that prevents negative camber gain for slight steering response. Just because something "feels tighter" doesn't mean it's good. Super stiff suspension might feel like a race car but that doesn't mean it can handle small bumps in pavement properly.
Even a simple off ramp MPH test would be fine.'84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi
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No one ever really has hard data on aftermarket parts especially suspension bits. Quality strut braces and subframe connectors/braces can definitely be good if designed well. Anything to keep the chassis from deflecting and maintain consistent geometry is a benefit. Adding this doesn't make the suspension stiffer at all it just lets it work the way its supposed to rather than the chassis flexing like a limp noodle. There is a reason new cars have chassis that are way way way more rigid than old cars.
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Originally posted by Sagaris View Postless chassis flex = less chance of cracking/tearing the chassis, lets the suspension do its work by maintaining the intended suspension geometry, improves steering input responsiveness.
Originally posted by chrisbmx68 View PostNo one ever really has hard data on aftermarket parts especially suspension bits. Quality strut braces and subframe connectors/braces can definitely be good if designed well. Anything to keep the chassis from deflecting and maintain consistent geometry is a benefit. Adding this doesn't make the suspension stiffer at all it just lets it work the way its supposed to rather than the chassis flexing like a limp noodle. There is a reason new cars have chassis that are way way way more rigid than old cars.
Basically, deflection of the frame doesn't always mean you lose grip and cornering force. You need to get it out of your head.'84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi
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jaxx I disagree with you. These cars can benefit from any kind of stiffening and reinforcement you can throw at them. Hell if it was safe and practical I would have a full cage in both of my street cars. For comparison before this brace when driving over rail road tracks it felt like the car would fall apart I had to go about 5mph. Now I can actually go 10 or 15 and the suspension doesn't feel like its tearing the front end of the car apart. I already have camber plates up front and a raised subframe in the rear with an adjustable camber and toe kit welded in. That being said this is a daily driver and im not that concerned about "improving turn in"
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Originally posted by Sagaris View PostI love you.
Originally posted by chrisbmx68 View Postjaxx I disagree with you. These cars can benefit from any kind of stiffening and reinforcement you can throw at them. Hell if it was safe and practical I would have a full cage in both of my street cars. For comparison before this brace when driving over rail road tracks it felt like the car would fall apart I had to go about 5mph. Now I can actually go 10 or 15 and the suspension doesn't feel like its tearing the front end of the car apart. I already have camber plates up front and a raised subframe in the rear with an adjustable camber and toe kit welded in. That being said this is a daily driver and im not that concerned about "improving turn in"
Don't take my feedback personally--I'm a person that prefers hard data over someone on the internet saying it's "better" without any objective data.'84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi
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Originally posted by Jaxx_ View Post...I'm a person that prefers hard data over someone on the internet saying it's "better" without any objective data.
I'm with you 100% right here, it drives me nuts to find out when someone spouts off info without a) first-hand experience b) stating a source for the info c) calculating something. Sometimes hard data just cant be conveniently recorded though. Even data/lap times can't account for a quality such as "feel" though
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Originally posted by Sagaris View PostI'm with you 100% right here, it drives me nuts to find out when someone spouts off info without a) first-hand experience b) stating a source for the info c) calculating something. Sometimes hard data just cant be conveniently recorded though. Even data/lap times can't account for a quality such as "feel" though
But maybe I'm just being too cautious, since there are many "i need shorter endlinks for no reason" threads and other such non-sense, I take most r3v posts with a heavy serving of salt.'84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi
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You are welcome to take this however you want I was just reviewing a mostly unknown product and giving some first hand experience. Also why would bmw make nearly an identical brace for the e36 if it wasn't beneficial. I drive a 318is with 277k miles on it I just want the car to feel solid when I turn and go over bumps not net .0003 seconds faster lap time. I can much easier justify spending 144 on this than dumping tons of cash building an NA m10 on standalone (coming from someone who has dumped a lot of money into an 8v)
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