rear camber + toe correction kit help

[Oolop]

i bought the tabs to weld in place and got everything done. but to tighten the nut on the toe eccentric bolt, is a super tight spot, i heard you need to make a special wrench or something to tighten it! i tried searching but couldnt find anything...

any help would be great

whether a pic, a DIY article, or somewhere i can buy it would help a lot

[jlevie]

Yes the outboard nuts are in a tight spot. I use 12point aircraft nuts, which are smaller in diameter. The wrench I use has been heated bent some into sort of an S shape.

[Oolop]

ok cool, thats just what i was thinking. could you post a pic so i can see just how you shaped it? it'd help me out

[chrisbmx68]

in the same boat its tight I think im going to need to mod a combination wrench to get in there.

[jlevie]

Here is a picture of the adjusters I make up up. The bolt is a 4x1/2" aircraft fastener, with both the bolt and the nut being 12 point. Those fasteners are a fair bit stronger than a grade 8. I only use an eccentric on the bolt side as it's purpose is just to get the adjustment correct. On the nut side I use a short piece of 1x1/8" strap, which gets welded to the adjuster once the alignment is complete. And the eccentric gets tack welded after alignment.

By not using an outboard eccentric the fasteners don't loose thread area and can be brought to higher torque. The higher torque and tack welds help lots in holding alignment. I've had stock adjusters loosen up and have had the threads strip on adjusters. So hence forth things get tack welded in.

The down side of locking the adjustment with a weld is that you have to drop the subframe and cut the welds free if a later alignment is needed. But that isn't all that difficult to do. It merely means disconnecting the muffler from the donuts, driving the subframe bolts up and out of the bushings, disconnecting the brake lines and lowering the subframe a few inches. There is no need to disconnect the drive shaft or e-brake cables.

It doesn't take much bend in the wrench to be able to get at the outboard adjuster nuts. You do have to heat the wrench to shape it. Don't chill the wrench after shaping, let it air cool. If you chill the wrench it will wind up brittle and break.

The wrench I use to adjust the eccentrics (not shown) is also bent. It has about a 45 deg bend in it a few inches from the end. A starter wrench will also work.

[Oolop]

oh ok that way, makes sense now. i think ill by a few wrenches the size i need and try to bend em right. i think ill try it with a wrench that works like a socket wrench (clicks), hope you guys know what im talking about. cant get the proper name of the tool out lol