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Replacing Tie Rod/Disc

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    Replacing Tie Rod/Disc

    So I ran into two problems while doing this tonight;

    1-I got the the caliper bolts off, but I couldn't get the allen bolt that holds the rotor on. Any tips?

    2-When taking off the tie rod, I was able to get the end bolt off, pulled the ring off, and pushed the bellow back. I can't make the tab ends put up? Should I just heat it up with a blow torch till it melts off?


    Thanks
    2014 Alpine White 335i MSport
    (Daily Driver)
    Full Mperformance Aero

    2007 Black Sapphire Metallic E92 335i (6MT)
    KW V2 Coilovers
    VRSF Catless Downpipes

    #2
    1-Use WD-40 or PB. did you strip it? First let it soak in the wd-40 then try with the allen key. If you stripped it use a hammer and chisel and hit it on a cc direction. if that fails you can weld a nut on the allen bolt then crank on the nut. if that fails then your drilling and tapping which sucks. the allen bolt is not necessary. it just keeps the rotor from spinning when mounting the wheel. its is a little annoying not having one from my own experiences

    2- you talking about the locking washer that prevents the tie rod from backing out?
    Last edited by ttrousdell; 08-17-2011, 08:34 PM.

    The Build:
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=191125

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by ttrousdell View Post
      1-Use WD-40 or PB. did you strip it? First let it soak in the wd-40 then try with the allen key. If you stripped it use a hammer and chisel and hit it on a cc direction. if that fails you can weld a nut on the allen bolt then crank on the nut. if that fails then your drilling and tapping which sucks. the allen bolt is not necessary. it just keeps the rotor from spinning when mounting the wheel. its is a little annoying not having one from my own experiences

      2- you talking about the locking washer that prevents the tie rod from backing out?

      1- no stripping. Already soaked it in Blaster. Wasn't able to move it


      2-Yes the washer
      2014 Alpine White 335i MSport
      (Daily Driver)
      Full Mperformance Aero

      2007 Black Sapphire Metallic E92 335i (6MT)
      KW V2 Coilovers
      VRSF Catless Downpipes

      Comment


        #4
        1-its a 6mm allen key right. find a skinny pipe and slip the key into it for more torque. make sure the key is all the way in the head of the bolt or it will strip.

        2-Think I used a chisel and mini hammer to beat the tabs back. Might have used really big channel locks to squeeze the tabs down once I put the new tie rod in. It was a lot of cursing. Im sure you can figure you a way that works

        The Build:
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=191125

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ttrousdell View Post
          1-its a 6mm allen key right. find a skinny pipe and slip the key into it for more torque. make sure the key is all the way in the head of the bolt or it will strip.

          2-Think I used a chisel and mini hammer to beat the tabs back. Might have used really big channel locks to squeeze the tabs down once I put the new tie rod in. It was a lot of cursing. Im sure you can figure you a way that works
          I second this! Exactly what i did - except i use a craftsman big flat head screwdriver and beat on it for the lock washer - dealers by me don't carry this washer, if you can believe it, so i just hammered it strait against my garage floor and used for the re-install. i didn't want to wait 3 days..

          Comment


            #6
            in the future just make sure your emergency brake is not engaged. The allen bolt isn't torqued down very hard and shouldn't require much effort to remove UNLESS your e-brake is engaged making it near impossible to remove.

            Comment


              #7
              Or do what previous owner did. Once removed make a slit with grinder so you can get it with a flat head :D

              Comment

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