Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Subframe

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Subframe

    Just finished my subframe with camber, toe, n urethane sub mounts. Next is the trailing arms woohoo..here is a peak.




    ---
    I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=34.012226,-117.677535
    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

    #2
    YUM sitting on a pool table makes it cash moneeeey.

    Comment


      #3
      It would be off soon.


      ---
      I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=34.012285,-117.677651
      Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

      Comment


        #4
        look great .. weld yourself or you had it done ..?
        --Hayden--
        '87 325 coupe- Trak Rat
        '93 318is- 4cyl's of fury
        '92 Integra GS-R--yeah, its fast..
        www.G2IC.com

        Comment


          #5
          Im about to tackle this too in a few days,
          I picked up a mint subframe that ill build off the car and then simply swap out along with a fresh LSD and fresh brake hardlines.
          i just recieved my powerflex diff mount bushing 95A from bimmerworld, just waiting on the subframe Bushings and T A bushings to come in


          looks awsome so far , any progress?
          my build here ---> http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...ht=lemans+blue

          Comment


            #6
            I'm tackling this project as we speak. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what this is and how do i remove it? It has no fittings it seems so i don't know where i need to disconnect it...

            Comment


              #7
              ^ e-brake cable.

              Takes a little fiddling, but you remove it by taking off the rotors, E-brake pads, and then removing the mechanism it attaches to(its held to it with a pin)
              I don't always wreck cars, but when I do I wreck them into trees.

              91' 318is S50 swap - The Black Widow

              Comment


                #8
                ^^^thanks!!!!

                Comment


                  #9
                  I'm also in the process and so far have dropped the complete subframe that'll be replaced by another I'm almost done prepping. I did it by loosening from the ebrake handle inside the car and simply pulling it out from under the car. Just in case, I sprayed some penetrating oil inside the tube to ease removal. Much easier and you don't have to reassemble the ebrake if you won't be rebuilding/replacing them.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I thought about doing it that way but ripped it all apart since i intended to clean everything thoroughly anyway.
                    I don't always wreck cars, but when I do I wreck them into trees.

                    91' 318is S50 swap - The Black Widow

                    Comment


                      #11
                      i have to say...replacing the rear trailing arm bushings has been the biggest pain the ass i've ever experienced....I didn't remove the whole sub frame as i couldn't seem to get the rear drive shaft disconnected from the diff....any thoughts or tips?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by GOT8SPD View Post
                        i couldn't seem to get the rear drive shaft disconnected from the diff....any thoughts or tips?
                        Why can’t you get it off? Put the car in gear, lock the e-brake, and loosen the bolts connecting the drive shaft to the diff, done?
                        sigpic

                        A man chooses, a slave obeys... Would you kindly?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by pantelones View Post
                          Why can’t you get it off? Put the car in gear, lock the e-brake, and loosen the bolts connecting the drive shaft to the diff, done?
                          I did exactly that....son of a bitch wouldn't come off. i used a open end 17mm and hit it with a rubber mallet and it wouldn't budge...i wish i could have removed the sub frame...would have made this job a lot easier. i already finished one side, but the other side i can't get the trailing arm to go on correctly so i can stick the bolts in...:( Will try again tomorrow.

                          BTW....any of you guys know...is it possible to remove the rear wheel hub from the wheel bearing without damaging the wheel bearing ? My rear wheel bearing is all rough now with the banging i did to remove the rear wheel hub so i can reconnect the e-brake. good thing it was a cheap wheel bearing...

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by GOT8SPD View Post
                            I did exactly that....son of a bitch wouldn't come off. i used a open end 17mm and hit it with a rubber mallet and it wouldn't budge...i wish i could have removed the sub frame...would have made this job a lot easier. i already finished one side, but the other side i can't get the trailing arm to go on correctly so i can stick the bolts in...:( Will try again tomorrow.
                            Was the drive shaft turning, or were the bolts just being stubborn? If the bolt aren’t coming loose use some wd-40 and let it sit for awhile, then come back to it and very carefully tighten then loosen the bolts until they break free. Or you can just drop the whole drive shaft from the trans and remove the CSB. If that doesn’t work then you can grind the heads off the bolts by the diff, but that is a last resort solution, I would try to avoid doing that.
                            sigpic

                            A man chooses, a slave obeys... Would you kindly?

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X