Removing inner cv bolts

[kikkoman]

I'm in the process of removing the subframe and have come across an issue removing the inner cv bolts. I've got almost all loosened (probably down to the last one or two) by placing the ebrake on and gear in first but all of a sudden the axle is spinning even when in gear! Just prior to this happening, I did notice it was kind of difficult getting the gear in first after rotating the axles to access the final bolts so I kind of slammed it in gear (w/o depressing the clutch in as the car is on jack stands). It made sort of loud clunk but otherwise went in gear but now I'm thinking something got messed up. Did I break something and if so what and how can I fix it?

BTW, my cars been on jack stands for last 3 days since I started tackling this job w/o much progress. Every time I try to remove/loosen something it's either too tight and/or too cramped, something else is in the way, I'm missing the exact tool or find another part I need to replace and order! :(

[jlevie]

I've found that an impact wrench is the best way to remove the inner CV flange bolts. But placing the transmission in gear should effectively lock the differential. If the axle is rotating with the transmission in gear you need to know if the engine is also rotating when you try to loosen the remaining bolts. If it is, compression could be low or the bolts are frozen and need an impact wrench to break them free. If the engine isn't turning the transmission isn't in gear or the clutch is slipping.

[kikkoman]

I'm not too worried about taking the rest of the bolts out (I'll try using an impact wrench as you've suggested) but I'm just concerned something else might need repair now. Everything was running fine before I started this whole suspension refresh (I think I might have bitten off little more then I can chew but can't look back now) but if I did break something I wanted to know what so I can just add to other additional parts I'm planning to order. It'll be a while before I'm done enough to drop and start the car again so I don't want to find out I need to take apart the car again after I thought I was done. Oh well, I guess I'll find out sooner or later. Thanks.

[TurboJake]

You'll only really know once you start driving. No need to worry yourself until something pops up.

[kikkoman]

UPDATE: In prepartion to drop my subframe, I've removed all necessary parts (including the previous stuck cv bolts) but can't seem to get the nuts connecting the driveshaft to the diff loose. Anyways, sticking to the subject, while I was down there I noticed that when I turn the side drive flange by hand the front flange (connected to driveshaft) doesn't rotate when the car is in gear. Does this mean the diff is shot?

[jlevie]

If the transmission was in fourth or fifth and you have an LSD in good condition you might be able to rotate the drive shaft by turning one output flange when the rear of the car is in the air. An LSD with good clutches can hold up to 60ft-lb of torque before it slips. That is enough to turn the engine if the transmission is in a high gear. But because of torque multiplication it isn't enough to turn the engine with the transmission in a low gear.

If you have an open differential the other drive flange will turn (in the opposite direction).

So this doesn't necessarily say anything about the condition of the differential. A pretty good test of the clutches in an LSD is to lock the passenger side output shaft (usually by just jacking up the left corner) put the transmission in neutral, and using a torque wrench on the axle nut (clockwise) to find out how much torque it takes to turn the axle. Anything over 50ft-lb is a differential with good clutches. At 30ft-lb or less I'd replace the clutches.

[2002maniac]

Im guessing you have an open diff in which case, the opposite drive flange is also spinning. You really should have loosened the driveshaft bolts first... try holding the driveshaft with a strap wrench or prybar.

[b*saint]

I've found that an impact wrench is the best way to remove the inner CV flange bolts. But placing the transmission in gear should effectively lock the differential. If the axle is rotating with the transmission in gear you need to know if the engine is also rotating when you try to loosen the remaining bolts. If it is, compression could be low or the bolts are frozen and need an impact wrench to break them free. If the engine isn't turning the transmission isn't in gear or the clutch is slipping.

Yea I do the same thing. It works great.

[kikkoman]

Im guessing you have an open diff in which case, the opposite drive flange is also spinning. You really should have loosened the driveshaft bolts first... try holding the driveshaft with a strap wrench or prybar.

Yes, I have an open diff and yes again the opposite drive flange is also spinning. I've sprayed penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts yesterday so I'll find out tomorrow how easy they'll loosen. I'm going to be replacing the diff with another so as TurboJake already said I guess I'll find out soon when everything is put back together. Thanks.

[browntown]

jlevie for president (or at least tech forum guru), the guy just knows everything e30

[kikkoman]

jlevie for president (or at least tech forum guru), the guy just knows everything e30

^^^This! Needless to say but couldn't agree more.

After struggling for days to loosen the diff bolt nuts and busting my right pinky smacking it trying to loosen it by hand under the car, I decided to use my brains instead. After thinking about it some, it occur to me that I should use my leg for much better leverage and strength. So, this morning as soon as I woke up, I put the gear in reverse to stop the driveshaft from spinning, put the open ended wrench at an angle so it stays on and pushed it with my foot using my legs sitting from the side of the car. One little push and that's all it took. I was able to loosen all four in about two min. I highly, strongly recommend this method for anyone!

Dropping the subframe is next. The nuts are off but the four bolts are still "connected" to the diff. I could almost push the driveshaft back enough to pull the bolts off the diff but not quite. Do I need to fully pull the bolts off before or would I have enough wiggle room after the subframe is loose (I'll be putting a jack under the diff) to kind of pull back on the diff while dropping the subframe w/o straining or breaking the bolts?

[jlevie]

You can pull the subframe with the drive shaft bolts out and the drive shaft still in the car, but you are goind to find that everything is going to be easier if you remove the drive shaft beore dropping the subframe.

And to make life easier, drive the subframe bolts up and out before trying to lower the subframe.

[Holland]

Once you lower either the diff or subframe, you should be able to disconnect the driveshaft from the diff easily. As mentioned above, drive the subframe bolts out before dropping the subframe itself (they are splined bolts).