AKG Subframe Bushing Aluminum Sleeve diameter

[crxb16t]

I dropped the subframe in hopes of reinstalling my bushings upside down to help get rid of some camber. One side was frozen and i turned it a puddle of plastic on the garage floor. So i think myself "i got this! I'll just rob the akg poly bushings from my parts car..." Turns out the parts car has softer akg bushings with sleeves that are bigger then the 75D i didn't investigate further as it's f'ing cold out tonight, and that was a good enough excuse to call it quits

Now that i'm stuck replacing the 5 year old bushings that were perfectly fine. I could use some input as which ones i want to go with i'm already fine with the 75D durometer. Any experiences with these bushings that raise the subframe heights, and how the wheel fits afterwards? Obviously i want to get rid of as much camber as possible for a daily driver without rubbing.

As my car sits:
bmw steelies/ studded snow
trying to fit
15x7 bbs e21 wheels et 13 225/50/15 RS2 iirc Still looking to complete this set so i can stop rolling on 14" weaves. I refuse to run sportmax, esm etc etc.

Biggest wheel i would consider is a 17" but most likely a 15" or 16"


Rear Subframe Bushing Set - Polyurethane 75D with Aluminum Sleeves
To raise the subframe 12 mm to adjust for extreme negative camber
For BMW e30 (318 323 325 M3, not iX)
Recommended for race use only
Set of two, lower spacers included

#SF30D12

[Massimo]

If you look there is a thread about this.

Anywho, I have them besides the extra noise that you get from the diff it is all good. You will most likely need to space the diff down 12mm most people end up chewing up their CSB if you don't.

So all you will need is the SFB don't get the optional diff mount as that is an off set mount, which will not work if you space down the diff.

[crxb16t]

If you look there is a thread about this.

Anywho, I have them besides the extra noise that you get from the diff it is all good. You will most likely need to space the diff down 12mm most people end up chewing up their CSB if you don't.

So all you will need is the SFB don't get the optional diff mount as that is an off set mount, which will not work if you space down the diff.

That thread could use a bit of cleaning that went back and forth quite a bit. lol Looked to me like the CSB failure could have been an isolated issue. I saw mention of the DS rubbing and he had the diff mildly shimmed, and didn't confirm if the CSB was in fact preloaded beforehand.

I don't like the idea the offset bushing myself i liked them for my CAB's, but this?! That bushing does nothing to correct the drive line angles why don't they machine some adapter plates for a more proper fix. My work has a laser CNC, but i don't think they have any interest in making anything but exhaust flanges on it.

How were the results i'm concerned about fitting big wheels like 17" Fiske's or CCW's under their with a lack of camber afterwards.

[Wh33lhop]

The bushings themselves get rid of about a half degree of camber. Not huge, but not negligible either.

I am guessing my CSB was damaged during install (with the driveshaft hanging) and the extra driveshaft angle helped to do it in. I've since replaced it and it seems ok. I used some pbblaster on the u-joints and while it's not a long term fix, surprisingly they seem to be fine for the time being. But I still have a strange vibration when I really get on it hard. It may or may not be related to the extra driveshaft angle, but honestly if I were to do it again I would get the centered bushing and space the diff down, in order to take the driveshaft angle and clearance variables out of the equation. I may still do so and just eat the cost of the offset bushing because honestly, who the hell is going to want to buy a secondhand offset diff bushing...

Wheel diameter or type has almost nothing to do with fitment, and raising the subframe is really irrelevant to your question. Your wheel width, offset, and tire specs as well as your alignment is relevant to fitment; your subframe position is not.

[crxb16t]

I still have a strange vibration when I really get on it hard. It may or may not be related to the extra driveshaft angle, but honestly if I were to do it again I would get the centered bushing and space the diff down, in order to take the driveshaft angle and clearance variables out of the equation.

Did you install the driveshaft out of phase possibly? There should be factory paintdots on the driveshaft to help put it in the correct orientation.

who the hell is going to want to buy a secondhand offset diff bushing

I bought a AKG bushing with a package deal for a 3.73 LSD, only downside is he lost the metal diff washer.

Wheel diameter or type has almost nothing to do with fitment, and raising the subframe is really irrelevant to your question. Your wheel width, offset, and tire specs as well as your alignment is relevant to fitment; your subframe position is not.

While i'm definitely not claiming to be Mystikal. I thought proper wheel fitment has alot of factors to be considered. Like when trying to fit a larger diameter low offset wheel, camber can help tuck them in. For example my e21 wheels are really low offset, and 225/50 is a bit to much sidewall. With a passenger in the backseat I rub, being that i'm raising the subframe up, subsequently reducing the camber that tilts the top of the tire even closer to the fender, no? CMIIW

[Wh33lhop]

Did you install the driveshaft out of phase possibly? There should be factory paintdots on the driveshaft to help put it in the correct orientation.

It is very possible that it's not aligned properly since this last time I made alignment markings that were removed by the CSB. However, that would likely be a constant vibration, and not one that only manifested when I was hard on the throttle and in the engine's powerband.

I bought a AKG bushing with a package deal for a 3.73 LSD, only downside is he lost the metal diff washer.'

The diff washer? Maybe it's an old design--my AKG diff bushing didn't come with a washer. Powerflex bushings do though.

While i'm definitely not claiming to be Mystikal. I thought proper wheel fitment has alot of factors to be considered. Like when trying to fit a larger diameter low offset wheel, camber can help tuck them in. For example my e21 wheels are really low offset, and 225/50 is a bit to much sidewall. With a passenger in the backseat I rub, being that i'm raising the subframe up, subsequently reducing the camber that tilts the top of the tire even closer to the fender, no? CMIIW

Saying you want to fit 17" fiskes tells us next to nothing. That's like asking if you should get Kumho tires. Well, maybe--what model exactly were you looking at, what size, what are you going to use it for, etc. You will need to cough up some more information before anyone can tell you anything. For reference, though, I am running very little camber in the rear (like 1-1.5 degrees tops) and my 15x8 +20 C1s with 225/45 RS3s fit just fine back when I had them.

[crxb16t]

I have no specific offset, or width in mind just as far out as i can go while still tucking and not rubbing severely, no poke like the sportmax bandwagon. I like the fitment of my 15x7 et13 weaves, and the 225/50 may even tuck nicer after rolling the fenders flat.

I probably won't run the fikse fm10 b/c my friend already has a set, but i would consider similar wheels. I forget the dimensions of the wheel just remember it was bolted to my car with no tire and the results were identical to this 16x9 et15 keskin kt1
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...keskin+fitment

[crxb16t]

Ok how about these these 17x8 BBS RS on ebay, i'm thinking about using that bill me later option i should be able to pay that quickly if it is a fair price with 4x100 redrill included. Not sure about that offset though sounds like a big fat ugly spacer is needed. C'mon R3v point me in the right direction and help me get this alpine white e30 with oem mtech II looking proper.
BBS RS 17" MemoryFab

[pantelones]

The diff washer? Maybe it's an old design--my AKG diff bushing didn't come with a washer. Powerflex bushings do though.

Weird, I stopped by there last week and got an 80a rear sub frame set, and the diff had a big washer. Maybe the 75d stuff doesn’t, that stuff is rock hard compared to the 80a.

What is the orientation of that rear diff bushing? The washer is on the side with the lip. I was thinking that the side with the lip should face forwards, is that correct? I forgot to ask him while I was there.

[immajackuup]

akg diff washer 85a

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=230947

[crxb16t]

Well the thing is my friend ordered a 75D from AKG lost it so he ordered another one which came with the washer. A few weeks later he found only the bushing, so i bought it from him.

He may have went with a different durometer maybe the 80a blue one, the one i got from him i know is a 75d b/c it's as hard as my old rear subframe bushings