Stripped Subframe Balljoint Nut - Help!

[browndog]

I wasn't able to get any wrenches or sockets on the remaining nut, on account of how deformed it was, but I WAS able to bust it off using a cold chisel and hammer. I was just trying to make it unscrew by pounding the appropriate side with the chisel, and it popped right off - nice!!

Thanks again for the input, guys! Really appreciated!

[browndog]

Thanks jlevie. I will and will update you guys.

[jlevie]

After I split a nut it will usually unscrew. Try unscrewing what is left of the nut.

[browndog]

Someone has an issue, r3v helps, that same someone UPDATES wtf they did. Thank you OP.

No, thank YOU guys!

Quick Update II: for future guys who try this method, I've found that splitting the nut on just one side isn't sufficient (at least it wasn't for me). With a single split, I was hoping I could just hammer in a pickle fork between the lower subframe and ball-joint and the nut would give way, dropping the control arm. Not so.

I decided I needed to split the nut on a second side. It's tight, but there is a small space of clearance between the subframe and the steering rack to get in at another, second angle. I used a ratcheting box-end wrench (Gearwrench) to get in and tighten the splitter. Be prepared for serious elbow-grease to make this happen. After the second split, I was able to get off part of the nut - maybe 40% of the total circumference. But since my splits were not aligned directly across from one another, the remaining nut is not coming off.

I tried the pickle fork again. Still a no-go. I guess that half-nut still has some staying power. I can't split it again - no angles left. To break the rest of it off, I tried a cold chisel and hammer to no avail. However, I need to get a longer chisel that will give me a better angle. That *might* work. I wish I had an air hammer with a long chisel, because I think that would bust it loose pretty easy.

I'll keep you guys updated. Just be prepared to split the nut on both sides for it to come off.

[drumad]

see this is what is supposed to happen

Someone has an issue, r3v helps, that same someone UPDATES wtf they did. Thank you OP.

[Swanny]

Thanks for the post! Def gotta pick up that set.

[browndog]

Hey Guys, quick update: my nut-splitter came today (ordered these from Amazon). The big one worked like a charm! It helped that I'd already removed the entire strut assembly on the passenger side to replace the struts/springs, so I was able to get a good angle on the nut and use my big torque wrench to really crank that sucker down. The trick seems to be getting the splitter started. At first, when you start torquing it, it just wants to twist off the nut. But once you get it started, it takes about 5 min of cranking to split the nut. I'm gonna rent a pickle fork from AutoZone tomorrow to hammer between the ball-joint and subframe, hopefully dropping the arm. Again, special thanks to jlevie and everybody who chimed in on this one - much appreciated!

[browndog]

OK, I ordered up nut-splitter last night that'll go up to 22mm. Should have it in tomorrow (couldn't find one locally that was big enough). Will let you guys know how it goes. Thanks again for all the input!

[jlevie]

Wow - a nut-splitter might be just what I need - thanks jlevie!

I'm looking at these nut-splitters, and I'm thinking I maybe could get one on there without even dropping the subframe. Just need to find one that's big enough to split a 22mm or 7/8". I'm thinking something like this:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...Product%20Page

I could probably only hit it from one angle. If I can just split it on one side, do you think I could separate the ball-joint from the lower subframe with a pickle-fork? Or do I really need to split that nut on two ends opposite each other (so it falls apart).

Again, thanks for all of your input - it's much appreciated!

You will only need to split the nut on one side.

[dude8383]

Get an engine brace from Harbor Freight or similar and use it to support the engine. Then drop the subframe down a few inches to gain access to the nut and use a nut breaker to split the nut and get off.

That is a tool that I need to add to my collection! Excellent post!

[browndog]

Wow - a nut-splitter might be just what I need - thanks jlevie!

I'm looking at these nut-splitters, and I'm thinking I maybe could get one on there without even dropping the subframe. Just need to find one that's big enough to split a 22mm or 7/8". I'm thinking something like this:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...Product%20Page

I could probably only hit it from one angle. If I can just split it on one side, do you think I could separate the ball-joint from the lower subframe with a pickle-fork? Or do I really need to split that nut on two ends opposite each other (so it falls apart).

Again, thanks for all of your input - it's much appreciated!

[jlevie]

Get an engine brace from Harbor Freight or similar and use it to support the engine. Then drop the subframe down a few inches to gain access to the nut and use a nut breaker to split the nut and get off.

[browndog]

Tried heat to no avail.

Dremel is an idea. Don't know if I could get it up in there from underneath. But if so, I could use a pickle fork to pound the balljoint from the subframe.

[dude8383]

Have you tried some heat on the nut?

Worst case scenario, try to split that nut with a dremel and pound the fucker out.

[browndog]

No, my ball joint is not moving at all. I stripped the actual bolt on top of the subframe. Sounds like we had separate but equal PITA's to deal with, ha.