All the hardware for a Brake job?

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  • DaButt
    E30 Addict
    • Jan 2012
    • 476

    #1

    All the hardware for a Brake job?

    I've looked around on here... can't find a definitive list. I'm sure it's in the Bentley, but mine is in my glovebox in my car, which is at the shop for a blown head gasket... some of you may remember.

    Anywho, I'm doing my suspension as soon as my fronts come in, and I'm thinking about doing the brakes at the same time. Seems like a fairly straightforward job, I just wanted to poll the Wizards before I jump into it.

    So, if I've read correctly, I'll need

    Obviously rotors and pads
    4? sensors?
    4? rotor retaining screws?
    8? caliper guide bolts?

    Anything I'm missing? Or do I have some of the numbers mixed up?

    Note- I'm not trying to "upgrade" or anything like that. I'm gonna stick with Brembo blanks and a decent pad- maybe Pagid Red?

    Open to suggestions on pads for normal (sometimes spirited) street use.

    Again, is there any other hardware I need to replace while I'm in there?

    Thanks in advance for the patience.
    /______\_o_/______\
    l{(OO)=[//][\\]=(OO)}|
    \ #___======___# /
    |__/-------------\__|

    "Took me an hour to do this..."

    took me like three seconds to copy/paste it- FOR SCIENCE!!



    Barney Fucking Rubble
  • Aleman
    E30 Mastermind
    • Mar 2012
    • 1582

    #2
    I'm about to do my front brakes, and, in addition the items you listed, I ordered a caliper rebuild kit. It was only $15, and I believe the kit includes 4 seals (2 for each of the front calipers) 34111154440. You'll have to check the condition of your calipers' boots before deciding if you need this.

    I'd recommend Akebono Euro ceramic pads, because they make virtually no dust and I've used them on other BMW's I've owned.

    Your pads will probably come with anti-squeal brake pad paste, but if they don't, be sure to get some of that.
    R135 /// 1990 Alpinweiß II 325is
    └┼┼┘ /// 1993 Black/Black Convertible (sold)
    ..24

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    • jlevie
      R3V OG
      • Nov 2006
      • 13530

      #3
      There are only two pad wear sensors, but you will want 4 rotor screws. Some rotors come with a new screw.

      As to guide bolts you first have to know what calipers are on the car. Depending on where it was built, a car with all disk brakes will have ATE rear calipers but could have ATE or Girling front calipers. While ATE guide bolts generally don't have to be replaced, the bushings do need to be replaced periodically. In a like manner the Girling guide bolts also. The soft lines also need periodic replacement. I figure on all of that and caliper rebuilds every 10 years or 100k.

      Brake fluid should be changed every other year. For street use I use Valvoline Synthetic. It has a dry boiling point close to that of ATE Blue & Type 200 and is much cheaper. It is more than good enough for street use. You'll need 1L to flush the system.

      If they were available for an E30 I'd use PFC Z-Rated pads, but alas they aren't. Hawk HPS aren't bad, and I have heard good things about StopTech Street Performance pads. I haven't tried the StopTech pads yet, but I will soon. Note that neither of those are suitable for track activities, they are street pads.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      • DaButt
        E30 Addict
        • Jan 2012
        • 476

        #4
        Jim, as always you're a fountain of knowledge. Much obliged.

        I know I have Girling front calipers. And I wish I had the time to track my car. I won't. I know it. If I do, I'll get race pads for that purpose.

        Thanks, I'll be sure to check the soft and hard lines when I'm in there for my suspension. And will have a look at the calipers to see if they need rebuilding.

        I'm thinking now that i'll hold off on the brakes until I get comfortable with everything. Something about gettin in over your head and getting overwhelmed.
        /______\_o_/______\
        l{(OO)=[//][\\]=(OO)}|
        \ #___======___# /
        |__/-------------\__|

        "Took me an hour to do this..."

        took me like three seconds to copy/paste it- FOR SCIENCE!!



        Barney Fucking Rubble

        Comment

        • jlevie
          R3V OG
          • Nov 2006
          • 13530

          #5
          Most of the time the first evidence of a need to rebuild the calipers is when one starts leaking or sticks. Looking at the caliper will only tell you if the dust boot is bad. Caliper rebuild kits are cheap and it doesn't take long to rebuild a caliper. Since I really don't like to have breakdowns, and I really like for the brakes to work every time, I rebuild calipers and replace the soft lines on a street car every four to five years (typically when the timing belt gets changed). I change the fluid in a street car every other year when I change the coolant. The race car gets caliper rebuilds and new soft lines every other season and a fluid change every six months.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment

          • efficient
            No R3VLimiter
            • Feb 2012
            • 3312

            #6
            Gonna bump this because I rebuilt both front calipers and my passenger side one is not locking up when I slam on the brakes just my driver side one. should I just replace the caliper or rebuild it again?btw I have all new stainless steel brake lines all around even the ones closer to the gas tank. Suggestions? Thanks
            Last edited by efficient; 10-22-2013, 06:01 AM.

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