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Rear Subframe Bushing Tool

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    Rear Subframe Bushing Tool

    Does anyone have a 1030 BMW E30 Subframe Bushing Tool that I could rent? Need to replace the bushing but every local place I have called to do the work for me said that they didn't want to take the job.

    If you have something I could rent please email me at:

    mslong27 at hotmail dot com

    Thanks for the help.
    '91 318is Alpine II- || HR Sport || Bilstein Sport || Poly RTAB || Treehouse FCAB || Poly Motor Mount || Poly Tranny Mount || Poly Diff mount || IE Sway Bar || BA HP Coils/Wires || 19# Injectors || SSR Comps w/10mm spacers || Hawk Pads || Fog Delete || Magnaflow Exhaust || Z4 3.0 SSK ||

    #2
    Well there is more than one way to skin a cat and I can promise you fewer than 1% of members here used that tool. You need to .
    --Will

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks for the input but I am not really interested in lighting my subframe on fire or removing it. The benefit of this tool is that you do not have to remove the subframe.

      If you have a tool I can rent or know where I can rent one let me know. Otherwise, save the comments.
      '91 318is Alpine II- || HR Sport || Bilstein Sport || Poly RTAB || Treehouse FCAB || Poly Motor Mount || Poly Tranny Mount || Poly Diff mount || IE Sway Bar || BA HP Coils/Wires || 19# Injectors || SSR Comps w/10mm spacers || Hawk Pads || Fog Delete || Magnaflow Exhaust || Z4 3.0 SSK ||

      Comment


        #4
        Like I said there's more than one way to do this job.



        Stop being a douche, no one has that tool except for shops and tool snobs who wouldn't loan you a dime.
        --Will

        Comment


          #5
          OK, here's a method that I know works (used it many times) and doesn't require the tool:

          - Car on jacktands (duh)
          - Remove the subframe plates from below with the 2 allen bolts and the large 22mm nut
          - Lower the subframe clear of the posts. You can leave the diff and driveshaft attached but you may need to disconnect the swaybar and shocks.
          - Place a large deep-well socket (like 1-1/2" or 36mm axle socket, at least 3" tall. If you don't have one handy you could use anything of a similar shape and size such as a section of pipe) over the post and slide it up towards the car until it touches the body. It should sit on the post, between the car body and the subframe.
          - Align the subframe, and slide it back on to the post. Because you've got a socket between the subframe and the car, it obviously will not go up all the way - this is a good thing
          - Using a blowtorch, begin heating the outside of the subframe ends where the bushing is pressed in. The goal here is NOT to set the bushing on fire, but to melt and 'liquify' the very outer layer of rubber between the subframe and the bushing. The liquid rubber will act as a kind of lubricant, as opposed to solid rubber which is very high in friction
          - Using a floor or bottle jack, begin jacking up on the subframe just inside (i.e. closer to the centerline of the car) of the bushing housing
          - If you've gotten that thin layer of rubber to melt, the bushing should easily press itself right out of the bottom of the subframe with minimal force needed from the jack. You may need to keep some heat on the subframe as you work the jack; if the rubber sets up again it will get much harder
          - To install new bushings, lube them up with some rubber-safe grease (lithium, moly, even vasoline will work) and push them by hand as far in to the subframe as they'll go. *Remember to remove the large socket you placed over the post earlier*
          - Then use the jack with a flat piece of wood on the pad to push the bushing and subframe back onto the post and onto the car.
          - The post will stick out from the bottom of the bushing and you wont be able to get it seated all the way. Use that large socket from earlier, placed between the jack pad and the bushing, to push the bushing/subframe in to position the rest of the way.
          - Reinstall the plate, 22mm nut and 2 allen bolts. Done!

          No special tools, no need to remove the subframe or diff from the car. I can do subframe bushings in about 60 minutes this way
          Last edited by CorvallisBMW; 10-26-2012, 09:21 AM.

          Comment


            #6
            Corvallis BMW: Thanks for the DIY

            CarsSuck: Sorry for being a douche. I see this method is a lot easier than I thought. I will definitely be filling up the torch and trying this out.

            I have AKG bushings going back in. Are they easy enough to just push back in by hand?
            Last edited by longms; 10-26-2012, 09:35 AM.
            '91 318is Alpine II- || HR Sport || Bilstein Sport || Poly RTAB || Treehouse FCAB || Poly Motor Mount || Poly Tranny Mount || Poly Diff mount || IE Sway Bar || BA HP Coils/Wires || 19# Injectors || SSR Comps w/10mm spacers || Hawk Pads || Fog Delete || Magnaflow Exhaust || Z4 3.0 SSK ||

            Comment


              #7
              Yes, AKG bushings will slide in by hand, no force necessary. I doubt you'll need to lube them either.

              Comment


                #8


                Alex has the tool for rent.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by CorvallisBMW View Post
                  Yes, AKG bushings will slide in by hand, no force necessary. I doubt you'll need to lube them either.
                  Does the big steel washer supplied by AKG go on the bottom or top. Do I even need it at all? Should I pack the grooves in the bushing with grease?

                  Thanks
                  '91 318is Alpine II- || HR Sport || Bilstein Sport || Poly RTAB || Treehouse FCAB || Poly Motor Mount || Poly Tranny Mount || Poly Diff mount || IE Sway Bar || BA HP Coils/Wires || 19# Injectors || SSR Comps w/10mm spacers || Hawk Pads || Fog Delete || Magnaflow Exhaust || Z4 3.0 SSK ||

                  Comment


                    #10
                    grease? hells no, its all rubber in there, nothing moves (aside from deflection). Some people will fill that space with urethane to make a fairly cheap, hybrid rubber/poly bushing. Supposedly works quite well, wish I had known before i did mine.
                    --Will

                    Comment


                      #11
                      My AKG bushing has some grooves on the side of the bushing. So no grease?
                      '91 318is Alpine II- || HR Sport || Bilstein Sport || Poly RTAB || Treehouse FCAB || Poly Motor Mount || Poly Tranny Mount || Poly Diff mount || IE Sway Bar || BA HP Coils/Wires || 19# Injectors || SSR Comps w/10mm spacers || Hawk Pads || Fog Delete || Magnaflow Exhaust || Z4 3.0 SSK ||

                      Comment


                        #12
                        oops, i didnt realize you were using poly bushings already. As mentioned it isnt necessary to use any lube to install them, but it might make em slide in easier. The grooves line up with a dimple in the subframe. Use whatever came with the TABs, if you must use something, but I really have no experience with poly bushings.
                        --Will

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